WHILE Herian Boccali’s eyewear business may have started in 2016, one may well say that Mr. Boccali has been working in the optical industry since the day he was born.

Mr. Boccali was in the Philippines from Feb. 5 to 8, specifically at Rustan’s Makati where, at the beauty floor, he conducted bespoke eyewear consultations for Rustan’s customers — especially for those who could afford them. After all, his ready-to-wear line for his brand, Herian, already costs P42,500 a pair. Made with buffalo horn or acetate, each pair is handmade at his workshop in Florence.

Mr. Boccali, dressed in a chic but definitely utilitarian denim work vest with matching pants (paired with deck shoes with a heel), wore one of his creations: a heavy, rounded ultramarine pair with a little white gold arm, signifying their handmade nature.

When we pointed out that his experiences began with his mother’s own optical shop, he corrected us by saying that his grandfather started the business, placing him in the third generation of the business. “We are in the same world,” he said, though his work differs by having his glasses created from start to finish all by hand.

“The idea to develop something unique for my client is born inside me, for a long time,” he said in an interview. “The most difficult thing is to process a way to make (something) one-for-one for my client.” After all, “Glasses are not just accessories, but an integral part of the wearer’s identity,” he said.

Glasses are a necessary tool, enabling one to see the world more clearly. But in his hands, the tool becomes art, and part of this is due to their unique, handmade quality. “The possibility to personalize (means) that we help to make the identity of the client they want (expressed) in their pair of glasses.”

“Everybody has their own identity,” he said.

BESPOKE EXPERIENCES
Jackie Avecilla, head of marketing for Rustan Commercial Corp., said that Mr. Boccali went to the Philippines due to a chance encounter with Anton Huang, president and chief executive officer (CEO) of SSI Group and Rustan Commercial Corp. According to Ms. Avecilla, Mr. Huang had been walking around Florence and stepped into his shop, after which they got to talking about the brand, ending with Mr. Huang commissioning a pair of glasses for himself. Mr. Huang then extended an invitation for Mr. Boccali to come to the Philippines.

Mr. Boccali’s presence in the store may have been limited for a limited time only (though his ready-to-wear line will stay on display and for sale for two months, or while supplies last), but his presence heralds a renewed thrust for Rustan’s to add more to the shopping experience.

“We’ll have more,” said Ms. Avecilla of these intimate experiences with artisans and makers. “Not just with glasses, but also with fashion and other (departments)… even up to our home brands.

“One of the thrusts for Rustan’s and the vision of our president and CEO is to bring in brands like these, that are more bespoke, that are more tailor-fit for our customers,” she said. “It’s the kind of brand that you can’t find anywhere else.

“It’s not popular… but I think that’s the beauty of it, really. It’s understated luxury,” she said. — Joseph L. Garcia

HOW TO GET Philippine Tropical Fabrics into the mainstream was one of the major topics during the 2026 National Textile Convention (TELACon).

One of these ways is to mandate its use in law, and this is already a requirement for government workers. Republic Act No. 9242, otherwise known as the Philippine Tropical Fabrics (PTF) Law, prescribes the use of PTFs for uniforms.

But what most people don’t know is that besides uniforms the law also covers “and for the purposes which require the use of fabrics in government offices and functions.”

Julius Leaño, Jr., director of DoST-PTRI (Department of Science and Technology – Philippine Textile Research Institute), said during the Jan. 29 talk at the Philippine International Convention Center, “Mainstreaming PTF, Government Uniforms and Beyond,” that the use of PTFs covers everything that has cloth: from table linens to upholstery. “Anything that’s textile-based in any government office must be made of PTF.” 

The law defines PTFs as fabrics containing natural fibers produced, spun, woven, or knitted and finished in the Philippines. At least 5% of the textile fibers used must be produced in the Philippines, the most popular being abaca, pineapple, banana, silk, and bamboo.

Mr. Leaño said that there is some confusion and overlap between using PTFs and indigenous textiles, such as the handloom-woven products by various groups around the country. “They may be used as accents,” he said, though using handloom woven products does not necessarily mean that they are compliant with the law. Thus a circular from the Civil Service Commission in 2024 revised the dress code for government offices to use traditional Filipiniana dress on Mondays — this is when those handwoven products can be used — but for the rest of the week, more standard fabrics incorporating the aforementioned fibers can be used.

He said that a report from the Civil Service Commission says that 48% of government offices are in compliance with RA 9242 — however, PTRI’s own report says that only 2% are actually compliant. But “once the private sector involvement [in manufacturing these fabrics] comes in, 98% [compliance will come] in a blink of an eye,” he says.

PIÑA CAMOUFLAGE?
Using PTF goes beyond the civil servants’ polo barong though — coming soon will be camouflage uniforms for the army.

Charmaine Diaz is the founder and chief executive officer of CKDiaz Worldwide Enterprise, a company that makes government uniforms as well as uniforms for the army, and they are working to comply with the law for the latter. She said that the rollout of camouflage uniforms incorporating PTF for the Philippine Armed Forces may begin next year.

It took some time to develop them due to the unique specifications and testing that army uniforms have to go through. They learned that fabric made with abaca proved durable, while pineapple fiber had antibacterial properties, doing away with the extra cost of antibacterial coatings and finishing. However, they are still limited by a lack of a standard for battle dress attire.

Matthew “Chuck” Lazaro, vice-president and director of Asia Textile Mills Inc., which produces and processes these natural plant fibers, said that affordability is one of the roadblocks to these fabrics hitting the mainstream. But while clothes made with PTF may be more expensive than mass-produced Chinese garments, he and Kingsmen Corp. (another clothing manufacturer) President Kristine Racho-Orobia reiterate that they’re still cheaper than other imported brands — and that the public might as well spend that money at home.

Mr. Lazaro said that they can actually supply more fiber, with 80,000 tons of pineapple fiber available. However, it remains expensive because of other costs including labor, and he thinks farm automation might speed up and reduce the costs of production.

HINDI NA MAKATI
Ms. Racho-Orobia tackled one issue that the regular customer may consider before wearing Philippine fabrics. “Hindi naman makati eh (it’s not itchy),” she said, referring to the stereotype that these fabrics can be uncomfortable. “Nowadays, with the way we treat it right now, hindi na siya makati (it’s no longer itchy),” Mr. Lazaro agreed.

Ms. Racho-Orobia, wearing a white blouse made of pineapple fiber, said that she will begin to boast of the fabric’s make, attaching the word “Philippine” to describe it — in the same way she used to say, “Egyptian cotton” or “French lace.”

On the issue of affordability, she said that one can make up a capsule wardrobe, and veer away from the overconsumption of fast fashion. “You don’t need to buy a lot of clothes,” she said.

Just good ones. — Joseph L. Garcia