WHEN I first encountered Bodega Colomé wines around eight years ago, either in VinExpo Asia Hong Kong or ProWein Germany (not sure which one), I was immediately captivated by their wines during my tastings of their verticals of Malbec. After all, Malbec is Argentina’s proudest and most famous wine varietal. Back then, I only recalled three levels of Malbec from Colomé, and they were all color-coded: Red-label for Estate Malbec, Blue-label for the Authentico Malbec, and Black-label for their top-of-the-line Reserva Malbec.
Colomé back then also had the distinction of being the highest vineyard on earth according to the Guiness Book of World Records, which stood then at 3,111 meters or 10,200 feet above sea level in Salta region. Imagine this — an elevation of over 3,000 meters is close to that of our own Mount Apo, the highest mountain and volcano in the country, which takes hikers two to four days to reach the summit. This record was shattered recently by a vineyard in Cai Na Xiang, Qushui, Lhasa County, Tibet, China that is situated at an altitude of 3,563 meters.
However, Bodega Colomé as a winery and vineyard owner, still owns some of the world’s highest altitude vineyards, ranging from a low of 2,300 meters to a high of 3,111 meters. In comparison, France’s Bordeaux vineyards are just around 40 meters above sea level, while the renowned Napa Valley in California has its highest altitude vineyards in their subregion of Atlas Peak, and those vineyards can only go as high as 800 meters.
Obviously, this means that lower altitude vineyards can still make amazing wines, as elevation is just one of several factors affecting vineyard conditions. So then, what are the qualities of high-altitude wines?
BENEFITS OF HIGH-ALTITUDE VINEYARDS
First, oenologists agree that altitude is relative and has more of an impact on vineyards in areas with tropical and subtropical climates of very hot and humid summers, rather than those in areas with a temperate climate of moderate summers like the ones in Europe and North America. High altitude cools down the vines in areas with temperatures that may otherwise scorch the berries, especially in the light of global warming.
A higher altitude also means a wider difference between day and night temperatures that ultimately preserves acidity and contributes to freshness.
Also, a high altitude gives the vines more direct contact with the sun, making grapes reach their ultimate physiological ripeness with positive effects on thicker skins, more color, and likely, more flavor depth.
MORE ABOUT BODEGA COLOMÉ
Bodega Colomé was founded in 1831, almost 200 years ago, and is in fact the oldest continuously operating winery in all of Argentina. Since 2001, the winery has been under the control and management of businessman Donald Hess, and at present, it is under the auspices of the second generation, Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar.
Bodega Colomé is a pioneer in making the best high-altitude wines in the world.
Bodega Colomé is based in Calchaquí Valley in the Salta region, home to Argentina’s highest vineyards. This year, Bodega Colomé ranked No. 24 out of the Top 100 in the World’s Best Vineyards list.
While you can already purchase Colomé Estate Malbec or Colomé Authentico Malbec at your favorite online wine shops, there are three other specific high-altitude Malbec wines that are missing from the Bodega Colomé portfolio in the Philippines.
These missing Malbecs are actually Colomé’s finest wines that came to being relatively recently. I was very fortunate to preview and taste these top-tired premium Malbec wines — all from Colomé’s highest vineyards, and all boasting of great critical reviews. These wines are not yet available in the Philippines but will most likely be released here come early 2024.
Below I share my tasting notes from when I tasted them for the first time.
MY CUSTOMARY TASTING NOTES:
Colomé Altura Maxima Malbec 2018, Salta Argentina — “altura maxima” means highest altitude and this wine comes from vineyards with elevation at 3,111 meters (10,200+ feet) above sea level, still the second highest vineyard after the one in Tibet. Only 7,000 bottles are produced for this specific wine annually.
“Wine has brilliant brooding deep violet color, nose of freshly picked berries, figs, buttered-toast bread, full-bodied, mocha-taste, with nice BBQ charred flavors, long with butter-scotch lingering finish.”
Estimated retail price: P8,000
Colomé El Arenal Single Vineyard Malbec 2021, Salta Argentina — from the estate’s El Arenal vineyard with elevation at 2,600 meters (8,500+ feet) above sea level.
“Wine has bright dark ruby color, aromatic, coffee-latte nose, intense flavors, more on tangier fruits like raspberry, rich and velvety texture, tannin are coffee-bean like, with lingering dark chocolate-bitter finish.”
Estimated retail price: P3,300
Colomé 1831 Oldest Vines Malbec 2019, Salta Argentina — named after the founding year of the winery. This wine comes from the oldest vineyards of the winery, with many over 100 years old, and grown at an elevation of 2,300 meters (7,500+ feet) above sea level.
“The wine has dark ruby color, more delicate flavors, cinnamon pie, juicy, minty, silky, long raisiney finish.”
Estimated retail price: P4,200
After tasting these Colomé wines, I am now a true believer of high-altitude wines, but don’t take my word for it, try them as soon as they are available on the market. And if you want to try the existing Colomé range from the Estate — the Authentico to their white wine Torrentes — look for them at your favorite online stores, or e-mail Golden Wines, Inc. at info@goldenwines.com.
The author is the first Filipino member of both the Bordeaux-based Federation Internationale des Journalists et Ecrivains du Vin et des Spiritueux (FIJEV) and the UK-based Circle of Wine Writers (CWW). For comments, inquiries, wine event coverage, wine consultancy, and other wine related concerns,e-mail the author at wineprotege@gmail.com, or check his wine training website at https://thewinetrainingcamp.wordpress.com/services
To bring back the office, bring back lunch
IT HAS been nearly two years since corporate America reopened, and employers are still struggling to get people back into the office. Just ask Jamie Dimon, Chief Executive Officer of JP Morgan Chase, who has been pushing for in-office-work, yet 30% of his workers remain hybrid and he continues to face pushback.
So allow me to make a modest proposal. This fall, to get people back to the office, US employers need to do something radical, something bold, something (gasp) very French: They need to buy their employees lunch — a proper lunch, in a restaurant.
There are no sad desk salads in France. Eating in the workplace is prohibited. Since 1962, French employees have received meal vouchers as part of their compensation. The vouchers used to be paper tickets, but now they are usually loaded on to a plastic card, which can be used to buy lunch at local restaurants. Both employers and employees contribute to the card — the former tax-free — with employers paying 50% to 60% of the lunch’s value.
The voucher can be used for a meal up to 19 euros, though that limit was doubled during the pandemic to help struggling restaurants. The number of meals an employee gets each month depends on the number of days he or she works; one meal voucher can be provided for each full workday, provided the meal occurs during the workday.
Like most efficiency-focused Americans, I always looked upon this system with a mixture of amusement and horror. I saw it as the sort of thing that can only happen in France. A law against eating at your desk? Talk about uncivilized. I prefer a quick lunch, thank you, so I can finish work and get home sooner. And as nice as a free lunch sounds, benefits are never really free; they usually mean a lower salary. Once again, thank you but I’d prefer the cash.
But I am rethinking my aversion to the French lunch voucher system because I fear the US workplace is stuck in what we economists call a sub-optimal equilibrium. Working together, in person, is important for training and workplace culture — especially for younger workers who require mentoring. Over time, working from home even a few days a week can mean lower productivity and less engagement with work.
I also worry about what working from home does to a society that is increasingly isolated and lonely. Not to mention all the struggling businesses in America’s downtowns. Foot traffic in downtown San Francisco is at only 32% of its 2019 level. New York is at 67%. Office vacancies remain elevated. Despite pleas and even threats from their bosses — many of whom are also WFH, at least part of the time — or free food in the office pantry, not enough people are going back.
So what if there were such a thing as a free lunch — not metaphorical but actual? A lunch that lasts an hour (maybe more) may be just the incentive you need. Especially at a nice restaurant in the middle of the day. It makes you feel so sophisticated. More important, it will involve making plans to get you out of the house. And while you shouldn’t be required to eat with your colleagues, maybe you will want to, which will improve morale and help restore the connections lost in the years of working from home. Perhaps you will even invite your junior coworkers.
True, there may be some productivity losses. Some people will take lunch breaks that are too long, especially if wine is involved. But working from home indefinitely might mean even more lost productivity. And any losses from lunch should be measured against the economic boost it would provide the restaurant sector.
The voucher system should be a little different than it is in France. Employee contributions to the voucher should be optional. And the vouchers should only be used in restaurants located in business districts, or near the workplace, for a sit-down meal. The tax incentive would be a nice bonus, but it’s not necessary, especially with growing public debt. Instead, participating restaurants may offer discounts or voucher-lunch specials if they want the business.
I realize this is all getting expensive. So employers needn’t offer a free lunch for every day worked. This is America, after all. It is your right as a citizen to eat at your desk. — Bloomberg Opinion