THREE chronographs from storied watch brand Patek Philippe got touch-ups this year, namely: the 5204, 5905, and 5930.
The split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar Reference 5204 has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions. One has a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (5204R-001); the other has an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet (this version has been seen on TV host Ellen DeGeneres, if our search through paparazzi photos proved correct).
Now Patek Philippe offers connoisseurs a new variation on the rose gold case by combining this precious metal with a matching slate gray dial and strap. The entirely hand-polished rose gold case stands out for its sophisticated architecture, with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs. Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the sunburst dial stand out for their legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock. Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock — functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar.
Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating. The transparent sapphire caseback offers an immersion into the heart of caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q, first introduced in 2012 on Reference 5204P-001. This movement is distinguished by its traditional architecture (manual winding, two column wheels, horizontal clutch) combined with seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.
The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate gray calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. The new 5204 is available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid casebacks.
A brand that started in the 1800s in Switzerland, Patek Philippe is patronized by monarchs, millionaires, and billionaires. It’s no surprise that celebrities are often spotted with Patek Philippe models, such as with the next model with a touch-up, the Reference 5905. MMA star Conor McGregor has been spotted with a 5905 on his personal Instagram account, while we spotted rapper Post Malone’s own on an Instagram account called @celebwatchspotter.
Reference 5905 combines two practical and easy-to-use complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The Manufacture is reinterpreting the style of this model by unveiling a first version in steel — a rare metal in the Patek Philippe collections — with a three-link integrated bracelet.
The extremely rhythmical dial features a new elegant and contemporary sunburst olive green color. It ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute sub-dial at 6 ‘clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting.
The polished steel case features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes (polished outer links and satin-finish inner links), while subtly distinguished from it by the underside of the bracelet and the edges which are polished, in line with the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.
Finally, the Reference 5930 combines two functions: a self-winding flyback chronograph and World Time. We couldn’t find a celebrity wearing one, so an earlier model might have been worn by someone a little more low-key.
This model was launched in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap. Patek Philippe reinterprets this timepiece with a sporty and cosmopolitan spirit in a new version combining the brilliance of platinum with a green dial and strap. The names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disk.
The green dial center illustrates the mastery of fine craftsmanship skills with a circular hand-guilloched circular pattern. This color is picked up at 6 o’clock on the snailed 30-minute counter. The applied hour-markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands in white gold are highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring good legibility in all circumstances. The entirely hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock. It features the wing-type lugs typical of 1940s-1950s World Time watches.
As caliber CH 28-520 HU is equipped with a column wheel and the modern disk-type vertical clutch, the central chronograph hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display — thus ensuring minimal wear and tear and without affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve. The 4 o’clock pusher enables instant restarting of a timing operation when the central hand is already performing an operation or is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display.
The World Time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When changing time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement. The new Reference 5930P-001 is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp. It is joining the white gold 5930G-010 version with blue dial and strap. — JLG
