SINCE late last year, the country’s culinary set has been abuzz with the rumor that the dining bible, The Michelin Guide, will soon include the Philippines in its coverage. The rumors are true: on Feb. 18 (Philippine Time), The Michelin Guide announced it would be coming here.

“The Michelin Guide has set its sights on the Philippines, marking an exciting new chapter for the country’s dynamic culinary scene. Today, the prestigious Guide announces its latest expansion into the vibrant culinary landscapes of Manila and Cebu. This new selection will focus on the bustling Metro Manila and the dynamic city of Cebu, while also beginning to explore the environs of Manila, including Pampanga, Tagaytay, and Cavite,” said the food guide in the News and Views section of its website, dated Feb. 17.

“Our Michelin Inspectors have been following the evolution of the Filipino culinary scene with great excitement. The country’s deep-rooted culinary traditions, combined with a strong openness to global influences, create a uniquely diverse dining culture,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of The Michelin Guide, in the statement. “In Manila, we see young, talented chefs redefining Filipino cuisine with fresh perspectives; while Cebu, as a leading tourist destination, offers an impressive range of dining experiences with world-class hospitality.”

Joshua Boutwood of Helm, The Test Kitchen, and Savage fame said in a message forwarded to BusinessWorld, “It’s a milestone of great magnitude for the industry.”

The Michelin Guide was created in 1900 by the Michelin tire company in response to a greater demand for cars in that year. The company released a guide for the road ahead with information for particulars like gas stations, but also hotels and restaurants. In 1926, it began to list restaurants with a star awards system:  one star is awarded to restaurants for “high-quality cooking that is worth a stop,” two stars for “excellent cooking that is worth a detour,” and three stars for “exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.” While first centered only in Europe (particularly France, Italy, and Britain), the Guide expanded to other regions such as the Americas, the rest of continental Europe, and entered Asia in the 21^st century. Countries recently added to the list include Vietnam, Estonia, the United Arab Emirates, and Malaysia.

Alongside the coveted Star ratings, the selection also includes the Bib Gourmand category, a distinction awarded to restaurants that provide good quality food at a moderate price.

According to The Michelin Guide, they rate restaurants according to five criteria “to ensure consistency between each selection,” including: the quality of the ingredients, the mastery of cooking techniques, the harmony of flavors, the personality of the cuisine, and the consistency both over time and through the menu as a whole.

“These evaluations are carried out objectively and independently, ensuring that external factors do not influence the results. This dedication to impartiality and excellence guarantees that only the outstanding dining establishments are recognized,” the guide said. “With their signature discretion and expertise, the anonymous Michelin Guide Inspectors have been meticulously exploring these regions, seeking out the most exceptional dining destinations. This highly anticipated selection will shine a spotlight on the Philippines’ most talented chefs and dedicated teams, celebrating their passion, innovation, and deep respect for local flavors and traditions.”

The Philippine government welcomes the arrival of the Guide to our shores. In a statement, Department of Tourism Secretary Christina Garcia Frasco said, “We extend our warmest welcome to The Michelin Guide, whose international recognition of the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage celebrates the diversity of flavors and exceptional creativity that permeate our nation. We are proud to share our vibrant culture and distinct cuisines to the world, which can be enjoyed through exceptional dining experiences across our dynamic cities and beautiful islands. We invite travelers to visit the Philippines and experience the love, warmth, and creativity of Filipino cuisine, while savoring innovative culinary creations shaped by diverse global influences.

“The arrival of The Michelin Guide is not only a testament to our country’s culinary excellence but also a significant leap forward for Filipino tourism, with gastronomy now forming a key part of our national tourism priorities. In the Philippines, every dish tells a story and every flavor is an invitation to experience our nation’s rich cultural tapestry,” Ms. Frasco added.

FANS AND FEARS
People in the culinary industry shared both their joys, their fears, and more with BusinessWorld over this development.

No slouch when it comes to awards, Martin Narisma, Senior Food Editor for the digital channel Featr and a restaurateur himself (his new ventures include Gacha, Llamado, and Sabong Fried Chicken) said in an Instagram message, “With their arrival, I’m very excited to see how most establishments will up their game. Food quality and taste is one thing, but I’m really looking forward to seeing restaurants work on customer service and satisfaction. I’m also hoping that a few places with great food but affordable prices be considered for a Bib gourmand. That would be a nice surprise.” The digital channel Featr, under Erwan Heussaff’s Fat Kid Inside Studios, has received numerous nominations from the prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards while Mr. Heussaff has had a win.

Chef Luis Chikiamco, executive chef of award-winning Discovery Primea, said, “If not now, when? We have top caliber chefs. Our Filipino gastronomy is interesting and unique. Our offerings can compete with the best of the world and this is a great time for the world to know about our cuisine and culinary practices, disciplines and techniques.”

Hernan Christian de Jesus of Provenciano, Jeepney, Casa Mojica and Fat Cousins, in a message, said, “It’s exciting to know about this announcement; as part of the restaurant industry we are welcoming the Michelin group,  as the most recognizable and credible world-renowned restaurant guide and rating.

“Finally they are here because they see the importance and the strength of Filipino cuisine in the international community. Me as a chef admits that our food is very diversified and has many variations. But, now I think with the modern and innovative take on our cuisine we are now ready and able to meet with the standards and quality of a Michelin requirements.”

Chef Robby Goco of Cyma, Elaia, and Souv by Cyma, was also quite positive. “The Michelin Guide not only helps position the Philippines as a top gastronomy destination on the global stage but also gives us a platform to showcase how we prepare food with our unique traditions, flavors, and creativity. This is an opportunity to promote excellence in the industry and elevate the standard of dining in our country. I believe it will inspire us to continuously improve and innovate, while also honoring our rich culinary heritage.”

Asked about the school’s reaction to the news, chef Philip John Golding, Center for Culinary Arts, Manila’s culinary director, wrote to BusinessWorld: “If Michelin enters the Philippines, it has the potential to elevate Filipino cuisine globally, boost tourism, and refine industry standards. However, to truly benefit the country, it should balance fine dining with authentic, everyday Filipino food, ensuring a holistic and inclusive culinary evolution.”

He noted that “Michelin has been highlighting sustainability with its Green Star initiative.” This in turn “could encourage Filipino restaurants to adopt sustainable sourcing, reduce food waste, and promote ethical farming and fishing practices.”

He also noted that “Filipino chefs and restaurateurs would strive for excellence, leading to a more competitive and refined dining landscape. This could also influence training programs and culinary schools to align with global best practices.”

Some have greeted the news with mixed feelings.

Myke “Tatung” Sarthou, whose cookbooks have won at the World Gourmand Awards multiple times, said in a Facebook message, “Actually, I have mixed feelings about it. Both happy and excited but also a bit intimidated about it coming over. It’s very good for the industry, but personally, I also feel pressured to get back in the kitchen and take my chance for an award. Hahaha, I don’t know. For now, let’s celebrate this win for the Philippines.”

Kalel Chan of the Raintree Restaurants group said, “The ones who would (want to) go for the stars would have to work ten times harder. Night and day. Local farmers and logistics ha(ve) to step up. Food quality will surely be top notch but everything will come with a cost. Cost of dining, labor, ingredients, mental strain to the chef and front of the house service team to keep everything consistent.”

Waya Araos-Wijangco, owner-chef of Gourmet Gypsy by Chef Waya in Baguio and a sustainability advocate said in a message forwarded to BusinessWorld, “Hmmm, I have always felt the Michelin rating system favored old white boys clubs. So I have never really subscribed to it. My priority has always been creating delicious, nutritious, sustainable and approachable food. And to make sure my restaurants contribute to the upliftment of farmers, fisherfolk and artisanal food purveyors.”

The full restaurant selection of The Michelin Guide Manila and Environs & Cebu 2026 will be unveiled at an event to be held in the last quarter of 2025. It will be available exclusively in digital format on all the Guide’s interfaces: website, mobile applications, and social networks. It will join the global Michelin Guide restaurant and hotel selections to be found for free on its digital platforms. — Joseph L. Garcia

CHEF Robby Goco strikes gold again with more praise for Greek cuisine —  we’d say “paean” but that’s a little bit on the nose — with his new restaurant, Elaia by Cyma.

Opening just last December, the restaurant’s name comes from the Greek for “olive.” The Greeks value the plant a great deal — in a legend, Athens took its name and patronage in a contest between Poseidon, the God of the Sea, and Athena, the Goddess of Knowledge and War. Poseidon gave the city the horse; Athena, the olive. The Greeks valued the olive more, and to this day, the capital bears the name of the contest’s winner, long after the gods lost their significance.

Guests were taken to the restaurant, which is located in Silang, Cavite, just a little bit off tourist hotspot Tagaytay, on Feb. 6. Tables groaned under the sheer amount of food.

We’ll say the pita and the tzatsiki were quite mild, and the Eggplant melitzo (all of these were presented as dips for the pita bread) was smoky and vivid. There was a dish of roasted shrimp, tomatoes, and feta called Garides Saganaki, with a definite taste and feel of something carefully stewed for a long time. Mr. Goco served a panzanella, a Greek bread salad with crisp bread and a very vibrant and forward tomato flavor. We liked the Kreatopita beef pie, so oddly comforting and familiar.

We entered serious territory with an octopus stew, braised for eight hours in red wine. It was so tender it broke apart with a flick of the tongue on the palate. A pompano was hot off the grill, and was very clean-tasting, but a winner from the main courses was the Pork Belly, cooked almost like it was Filipino. Marinated in coriander root, limes, and paprika that penetrated all the way to the center, it was smoky-sweet and tasted like a seaside meal.

The Roasted Lamb also impressed us, with meat so tender it could be sliced with a spoon (to be fair, not a novelty for a Filipino).

While we complained we had no room for dessert, we still managed to finish a slice of Sokolatopita —  Greek chocolate cake with brown butter buttercream and salted caramel.

Mr. Goco professes that he has lost weight despite this amount of feasting. Describing the difference between his previous Greek-style ventures, the popular chains Cyma and Souv, he describes Cyma as someone from the city, Souv as its eccentric sibling, and Elaia as their traditionalist grandmother.

“This one really promotes longevity,” he told BusinessWorld in an interview. “We really made it a point that everybody here will be having their proteins, with very, very healthy vegetables.” He added, “Everything’s cooked in extra virgin olive oil. No more seed oils.”

Some cooking guides are against the practice, singling out extra virgin olive oil’s low smoke point (which means the oil burns out and breaks down, which opens the possibility of the release of harmful compounds; not to mention the taste). He says, “It doesn’t change the oil. Yeah, sure, you’re going to see it’s smoking, but it stays longer, and it doesn’t go bad. Unlike others, wherein after the high smoke point, wala na (it’s gone), it turns rancid. Olive oil, it maintains its integrity.”

To his point, nothing we tasted was off, and we don’t know how he does it, but some dishes even tasted like they had butter in it (zero; we couldn’t believe it wasn’t butter).

Bustling Tagaytay has attracted more than its fair share of tourists and moving further away from the lake (or the Ridge) has become a solution for restaurateurs to take advantage of the location without the hassle. “It’s very calming,” he said about opening in Silang. “Once you get to the Ridge, it’s stressful.”

The location also provides a locus for supplies, thanks to the great agricultural scene: “This can service our restaurants in Manila. This is going to be the drop-off point for all the vegetables,” he said.

À LA GRECQUE (SALAD AND A WAY OF LIFE)
Mr. Goco first opened Cyma in 2000, after studying Greek cuisine in Greece, and noting the dearth of proper Greek restaurants in the Philippines. It’s still standing, and even thriving. He lines out reasons why the two cuisines meld so well — for example, both are archipelagos (the name for island groups comes from the Greeks). “Both rely heavily on the sea for sustenance. Very similar.”

Frequent visits to Greece must have rubbed off on him, and may have changed him à la grecque (“in the Greek manner,” but also a way of dressing food in olive oil and lemon juice), we said. Not so much: there’s very little to modify between Greek and Filipino behaviors, apparently. “It’s very similar to the Filipino,” he said.

“They’re very expressive with their feelings. They talk loud(ly), right? The weather is almost like the Philippines. They’re very proud of their culture.”

Elaia by Cyma is on Buenavista Ave., Bucal, Silang, Cavite. It is open daily, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Mondays to Thursdays, and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Friday to Sunday.  For reservations, contact 0917-163-7287. — Joseph L. Garcia