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DoF wants all tax reforms ratified by Dec.

THE DEPARTMENT of Finance (DoF) wants the remaining tax reform segments out of the legislative mill by December, leaving a little more than three years for the current administration to make sure they start yielding the desired outcomes of “fairer” taxation, a wider base and bigger collections.

A DoF presentation at the Philippine Economic Briefing in Davao City on Friday last week showed an increase in alcohol and tobacco excise taxes — besides what is already provided initially by Republic Act No. 10963, or the Tax Reform for Acceleration and Inclusion Act which took effect in January — is targeted for ratification by Congress this June.

RA 10963 cut personal income tax rates to give households more money to spend and covered the resulting foregone revenues by adding taxes on cars, fuel, sugar-sweetened drinks, some minerals, and tobacco products, among others, and removing several value added tax (VAT) exemptions.

Inserted in the second package — composed mainly of a cut in corporate income tax to 25% by 2022, when President Rodrigo R. Duterte ends his six-year term, from 30% currently and the removal of redundant tax incentives — which DoF submitted to Congress on Jan. 16 are proposals to remove VAT breaks of coal and casinos. This package is targeted for ratification by December.

Targeted for ratification also by December are changes in property taxation and valuation to give national and local levies in this sector a uniform framework, reforms in capital income and financial taxes, as well as a comprehensive mining tax that will give the government a bigger share of miners’ revenues.

Proposals for a general tax amnesty — designed to widen the tax base — and relaxed deposit secrecy that will make it harder for tax cheats to hide after this offer are expected to be passed by the House of Representatives this month.

RA 10963 is now projected to raise P82.3 billion in 2018 — the law’s first year of implementation — after tweaks by the House and the Senate whittled down the amount from P149.6-157.2 billion initially expected when the DoF submitted its proposal of this first of up to five tax reform packages to both chambers in September 2016.

Ratification by December will ensure that tax reforms will be spared of mounting populist pressures to be expected as lawmakers prepare for mid-term elections in May 2019.

The DoF had said that recommending a fifth package — made up of increased tax rates on luxury items like jewelry and yachts — will depend on how preceding tranches jack up state revenues. The tax reform program is supposed to yield P2 trillion in additional revenues, which will help finance the government’s planned P8-trillion infrastructure program until 2022. — Melissa Luz T. Lopez

Philippines paid less debt in 2017

DEBT PAYMENTS made by the Philippines declined in 2017 as amortization dropped by more than a fifth, latest Treasury data showed.

The Philippines paid P680.466 billion worth of outstanding debt last year, 13.9% less than the P789.965 billion settled in 2016, according to the Bureau of the Treasury.

In December alone, the government settled P27.963 billion of outstanding debts, lower than the P35.642 billion settled in November but 12.2% more than P24.922 billion the previous year.

Principal payments accounted for over half the amount at P369.926 billion in 2017. However, this marked a 23.8% drop from the P485.511 billion settled a year ago.

Broken down, the national government paid P229.392 billion of outstanding liabilities from domestic sources in 2017, down by a fourth from the previous year’s P311.875 billion. The Philippines also paid P140.534 billion of the amount it owed foreign creditors, 19.1% less than the P173.636 billion in offshore liabilities settled in 2016.

These involved the redemption of debt papers previously sold by the Treasury to raise fresh funds for the government, as well as assumed liabilities from state-run corporations.

On the other hand, interest payments generally steadied at P310.541 billion last year from the P304.454 billion paid in 2016. Interest payments are considered automatic appropriations under the national budget for the year, although these fell seven percent short of a P334.9-billion program for 2017.

The modest pickup in interest payments helped fuel total state disbursements to grow 11% year-on-year to P2.824 trillion in 2017.

Debts incurred by the Philippine government totalled P6.652 trillion as of end-December, up by a tenth from a year ago. Its share relative to the economy stood at 42.1%, which economic managers described as “manageable” and relatively low compared to the ratio of many other Asian countries.

The national government borrows from local and foreign sources to fund the planned increased spending and boost economic activity.

This year, economic managers set a 74-26% borrowing mix to raise P888.227 billion in favor of domestic loans, with foreign debts taking a bigger share compared to 80-20% previously. — M. L. T. Lopez

Best global growth in decades, but much deja vu

LONDON — While the synchronized global economic expansion is helping get people back into work and forcing interest rates to rise, there is a sense of deja vu brewing about two notable parts of the world.

The European and Japanese central banks are singing similar — and repetitive — policy tunes while facing the same challenges: the best economic growth in years but no sign of rising inflation, and doggedly strong currencies keeping a lid on prices.

The European Central Bank (ECB) said on Thursday it is no longer willing to increase the speed or ferocity of its already-reduced monthly asset purchases program if conditions warrant. But the ECB is still buying €30 billion worth of bonds a month, adding to its more than €2.5-trillion pile each time, with key interest rates still on the floor or negative.

Provided all goes well — and that is not guaranteed — the bond-buying is expected to end sometime late this year, but even then, interest rates won’t likely rise until well into 2019, going by the ECB’s own guidance.

By current expectations, the US Federal Reserve will have raised rates several more times by then, leaving the policy outlook for important central banks overseeing similar consumer-driven economies ever more out of synch.

For its part, the Bank of Japan, which abandoned setting short-term interest rates altogether, is also keeping steady asset purchases that have been in place in various forms for most of nearly 20 years and have greatly intensified recently.

Despite the longest run of economic growth in Japan for 28 years, BoJ Governor Haruhiko Kuroda made clear on Friday that talk in the market of an exit to the program is premature.

All of this raises the question: If not now, when?

Looking at core inflation rates in early 2018 and just about any recent year, an outside observer unfamiliar with the mind-bending sums of asset purchases undertaken via Frankfurt and Tokyo would be forgiven for not noticing anything was happening.

The ECB staff outlook for inflation doesn’t have it nearing its close to but just below two percent target for at least another three years, and the latest Reuters surveys of private sector economists suggest the same.

Indeed, for all of the well-founded optimism around the euro zone’s economic boom since late last year, the ECB is no doubt more worried than it can possibly let on that forward-looking indicators suggest it may already be slowing.

A majority of economists in a Reuters poll taken two weeks ago said the peak of growth momentum in the euro zone was now in the rear-view mirror.

European stock markets, which have been wobbling of late but not far off record highs, seem to carry a whiff of that.

And this leaves aside US President Donald Trump’s decision to levy stiff steel and aluminum tariffs.

The European Union is preparing possible retaliatory measures, and exporters in Asia are also sounding alarm bells.

Once again, it appears that the euro itself may have started to create a feedback loop that most observers of the euro zone economy and ECB policy are all too familiar with.

Taken together with the actual outlook for the currency from foreign exchange dealers — it is set to rise more as the dollar falls — there is cause for concern, or at the least, an inclination to consider if we haven’t been here before.

“While we certainly don’t want to become bearish on the growth outlook, recent data seem to suggest that the acceleration in growth might soon start to level off,” Peter Vanden Houte wrote in ING’s latest global outlook.

“As we pointed out before, sooner or later, the strong euro had to have some impact.”

In the meantime, the Japanese yen has been on a tear against a sinking dollar recently, despite expectations for several Fed rate rises this year.

“All told, the renewed strengthening of the exchange rate provides another stumbling block for the Bank of Japan’s efforts to stoke price pressures,” noted Marcel Thieliant, senior Japan economist at Capital Economics.

“Our view that the Bank will not tighten policy anytime soon is increasingly shared by the analyst consensus: More than 60% of analysts polled by Reuters expect the Bank to leave policy settings unchanged this year.” — Reuters

Semirara proposes tax on firms buying its coal

SEMIRARA MINING and Power Corp. is proposing an alternative “win-win” solution to the government after asserting its right to be exempted from paying the excise tax on coal.

Semirara Chief Executive Officer Isidro A. Consunji told reporters last week the company recommended to the government that it instead impose taxes on power generation companies buying its coal products.

“If you’re just after tax generation, why don’t we offer you a solution that protects our tax exemption and revenue generation? Kung kami exempted, huwag mo i-exempt ang buyer namin (If we are exempted, then don’t exempt our buyers),” Mr. Consunji said, recalling his conversation with officials from the Department of Finance and Bureau of Internal Revenue.

Mr. Consunji was referring to Presidential Decree 972, also known as the Coal Development Act, which exempts Semirara from paying all taxes, except income tax.

Power generation firms, he said, will be amenable to the proposal since the excise tax can be passed on to the consumers under the rules of the Energy Regulatory Commission.

“It seems the concept is workable with them (government),” Mr. Consunji said.

The government’s new tax plan slapped a P50 per metric ton excise tax on coal, which would jack up electricity rates by two to three centavos per kilowatt-hour, he said.

Semirara has been paying a “royalty” to the Department of Energy, as stated in its coal operating contract with the government. The royalty payment goes to the national government, municipal government and barangay where the company operates.

Local government units are entitled to a 40% share of royalty proceeds from petroleum, coal, geothermal, hydrothermal and wind resources under the Local Government Code of 1991.

Semirara paid royalties equivalent to 14% of sales in 2017, significantly higher than the 1.5% that will be collected from the firm based on the new tax regime, Mr. Consunji said.

“We told them the coal industry is the most taxed sector of the extractive industries outside of petroleum except people don’t know about it,” Mr. Consunji said.

Semirara’s royalty payments to the Energy department reached P1.69 billion in the first half of 2017, nearly three times the P575 million it paid during the same period in the previous year, because it produced more coal and expanded its operations.

The net income contribution of Semirara to DMCI Holdings, Inc. rose 15% to P8 billion in 2017 from P6.9 billion a year ago on the back of a 20% growth in average coal prices and 21% jump in gross electric output. — Krista Angela M. Montealegre

DM Consunji bags P16-billion new projects in 2017

By Krista Angela M. Montealegre,
National Correspondent

Anchor Land Holdings has tapped D.M. Consunji, Inc. to build its Anchor Grandsuites project near Intramuros, Manila.

THE construction arm of DMCI Holdings, Inc. nearly doubled its newly awarded projects last year, with the higher cost of construction materials prompting an increase in the real estate business’ selling prices even as demand continues to be robust.

In a statement, D.M. Consunji, Inc. said it bagged P16 billion worth of infrastructure, energy, buildings, utilities and plants projects compared to P8.2 billion in 2016.

The contractor closed the year with an order book of P25.4 billion, up by more than a quarter from P20 billion in 2016.

The newly signed projects include the Cavite-Laguna Expressway of MPCALA Holdings, Inc., the petrochemical project of JG Summit Holdings, residential towers Maven of Ortigas & Co. and Anchor Grandsuites of Anchor Land Holdings, Inc., Bued Viaduct and Roadway of Private Infra Development Corp., and the 105-megawatt conventional power plant of Sarangani Energy Corp.

DM Consunji is working on big-ticket projects including Metro Manila Skyway Stage 3 of Citra Central Expressway Corp., Six Senses Resort Phase 2 of Federal Land, Inc., Light Rail Transit Line 2 Masinag Station of the Department of Transportation, City Gate of Ayala Land, Inc., The Imperium and The Royalton of Ortigas & Co., and Radiance Manila Bay of Robinsons Land Corp.

DMCI Holdings, Chairman and President Isidro A. Consunji told reporters last week that the combination of the new tax regime, higher oil prices, rising interest rates and weaker peso point to higher prices of construction materials.

HIGHER PRICES
This has forced DMCI Project Developers, Inc., operating under the DMCI Homes brand, to jack up prices of its residential projects despite hedging on steel bars and cement. For its latest project, the real estate firm hiked the price to more than P90,000 per square meter (sq.m.) from an average of P80,000 per sq.m. last year.

Demand, however, continues to be robust, with the new development selling 750 units in a week — the fastest sales velocity among its projects, Mr. Consunji said.

“Our prices remain to be significantly lower compared to our competitors and it (price hike) doesn’t seem to dent the market,” he said.

Likewise, DMCI Homes is seeing a “significant shift” in its buyers, Mr. Consunji said, citing growing demand from mainland Chinese buyers, who now account for more than half of the company’s overseas sales in the first quarter of 2018. Take-up from overseas markets contribute half to reservation sales.

Kung hindi namin pipigilin baka umabot ng 90% (If we don’t control this, it may reach up to 90%). No kidding,” he said.

“Our worry is if we have too many absentee residence you might have what you see in Shanghai and Beijing wherein you have totally sold buildings but no one is living there. It’s out of our objective to sell to the end users — preferably the local end user,” Mr. Consunji said.

D&L Industries to ramp up export business

By Arra B. Francia Reporter

D&L INDUSTRIES, Inc. (DNL) targets to have its export business contribute half of the company’s total revenues by 2025, banking on the expansion of a facility in Batangas and its entry into new markets in the Asia-Pacific region.

The listed food ingredients, plastics, and aerosol manufacturer said exports accounted for a fourth of its P27.78-billion revenues in 2017, from its 18% contribution in 2016. Food ingredients made up bulk of the company’s exports at 45%, followed by oleochemicals and other specialty chemicals at 28%, and specialty plastics at 27%.

May seven years pa ko to do that (I have seven years to do that),” DNL President and Chief Executive Officer Alvin D. Lao told reporters last week after being asked when the company expects to achieve 50-50 revenue contribution from overseas and domestic sales.

Mr. Lao said the planned expansion in Batangas will support this revenue contribution target, as half of the products to be manufactured in the new facility will have to be exported.

Yung bagong expansion sa Batangas, nasa PEZA zone (The new expansion in Batangas is inside the Philippine Economic Zone Authority special economic zone)… So you can say that this expansion in Batangas is going to help our goal of reaching 50% export (target) because whatever we make there, the minimum export is 50%, so it is aligned with the goal,” Mr. Lao said.

DNL is in the planning stages for the construction of a new facility at the First Industrial Township-Special Economic Zone in Batangas through its subsidiary, Natura Aeropack Corp. The company said this expansion will help support its growth in the next 20 years.

The facility is set to be completed in 2021.

Mr. Lao said the company has more than 10 proposed deals on the table at the moment.

“We’re focusing mainly on Asia Pacific… In general, Asia Pacific is really our target because it is near,” he added.

The company is now present in China, Hong Kong, Japan, and Indonesia, through its recent acquisition of United States-based food manufacturer Ventura Foods.

This year, the company targets to book a net income of P3.2 billion as it expects to sustain its growth momentum in 2017. The firm is allotting P500 million for its capital expenditure program in 2018, mainly for its existing facilities.

DNL increased its earnings by 10.6% to P2.9 billion in 2017, against the P2.63 billion it delivered in 2016. This was driven by a 25% rise in sales to P27.8 billion.

Incorporated in 1971, DNL focuses on research and development for the manufacture of food ingredients, colorants and plastic additives, aerosols, and oleochemicals, resins, and powder coatings.

More mechanization needed amid dwindling farm workers — DA

THE Department of Agriculture (DA) is pushing for further farm mechanization to improve work conditions and output, as a response to the decrease in the number of people taking up farming.

Agriculture Secretary Emmanuel F. Piñol told reporters in a chance interview that fewer workers in the farming industry could be interpreted as an indication of the relative attractiveness of other careers in a growing economy.

“It could be an indication of economic progress because if their lives are improving, then they may no longer want to plant rice.”

The Sugar Regulatory Administration has said that it expects sugar workers to take up construction jobs because of better pay, with construction labor in demand as the government pursues an aggressive program of infrastructure projects.

“No matter what we do, farming really has a stigma. If people see the farmer riding a tractor instead of a water buffalo, then that’s a different conversation. Modernization could change things,” Mr. Piñol said.

On the matter of improving output and value-added in the sector, Mr. Piñol said he met last week with a biotechnology company in preparation for the arrival of dairy cows from Brazil.

Mr. Piñol said farmers should seek to climb the value chain in dairy with specialty products such as ice cream and cheese.

On Wednesday, Mr. Piñol went to Papua New Guinea to sign an agreement to allow Filipino companies to plant hybrid rice seed on a 100-hectare model farm initially, before expanding to more planting on available land in PNG.

“Outsourcing has been a trend going on for decades already. The Philippines is just catching up. It could be an indication that we are really economically growing. If we can operate outside of our country, it means that we are growing,” Mr. Piñol said.

As for other crops, Mr. Piñol added that the private sector has to take the lead.

“Our job is to facilitate, to enter into an agreement with that country so that their investments will be secured with a bilateral agreement, which helps protect the investors from future policy changes.” — Anna Gabriela A. Mogato

China hog prices plunge after farm building boom

BEIJING — Chinese pig prices hit their lowest in nearly four years this week, plunging farmers in the world’s top pork market into the red and underscoring concerns that a rapid expansion of large pig farms in China has outpaced slowing demand growth.

The sudden downturn — one of the steepest declines over such a short period ever — will mark the first serious test for many companies that have rushed into pig farming in the last two years.

It will also slow imports of pork by the world’s top buyer, traders and analysts say. The price is set to recover when demand picks up later in the year but will come under renewed pressure in 2019 as more new farms start production, analysts say.

Live pig prices are now hovering just above 11 yuan ($1.74) per kilogram (kg.) in major producing areas such as Henan. That’s below average production costs, after plunging more than 20% from early January when they were close to 16 yuan per kg.

“The reason is very clear. There are a lot of pigs on the market,” said Feng Yonghui, chief researcher at trade Web site Soozhu.com.

The sudden plunge in prices is the result of conflicting trends in the industry over the last year. On the one hand, big producers have expanded rapidly to grow market share, but on the other, a government crackdown on pollution that intensified in 2017 shut many small farms, making it difficult to get an accurate picture of supply.

Monthly government data continues to show a drop in the number of breeding pigs, suggesting supply has not yet caught up with demand.

That kept market prices high throughout the winter and led Beijing to release some pork from its reserves. Though volumes released were small, it was another signal of insufficient supply that “misled” the market, said Pan Chenjun, senior analyst at Rabobank.

Abundant supplies became evident in the run-up to mid-February’s Lunar New Year festivities, China’s peak pork consumption period.

“Slaughterhouses took advantage of the increased supply to set prices, which led to growing price pressure in the market,” said Feng.

Prices in February in seven major provinces fell at their fastest pace on Reuters records going back to 2012. — Reuters

Pilmico to build meat cutting facility in Tarlac

PILMICO FOODS Corp., the food subsidiary of listed Aboitiz Equity Ventures, Inc., is planning to build a meat cutting facility in Tarlac.

“We’ll set up a meat fabrication facility in Tarlac and also a food storage area in Tarlac,” Pilmico Chief Executive Officer and President Sabin M. Aboitiz told reporters on Friday after signing a memorandum of agreement with the Department of Trade and Industry on the promotion of backyard farming and sustainable livelihood.

For the meat cutting facility, the raw materials will be sourced from Pilmico’s farms as well as local farmers.

The facility, Pilmico’s first in the country, is designed to cut carcasses into standard wholesale and retail cuts. It will have a capacity of cutting 120 heads per hour.

“Basically, we have to connect digitally the farm and the markets. We want to put them in financing and ordering pieces digitally so we can make it at the least cost. Here you can borrow the money, order it and get the delivery,” Mr. Aboitiz said.

The cut meat will be brought to wet markets, as 70% of the country’s meat are still sold in palengkes, not supermarkets and groceries.

Mr. Aboitiz said Pilmico is waiting for the Department of Agrarian Reform’s approval to convert the Tarlac   property from agricultural land to industrial. He expects the permit to be issued within six to eight months.

For its feed business operations, Pilmico said it continues to widen its consumer base in member-countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, particularly Vietnam.

Pilmico International Pte. Ltd., a wholly owned subsidiary of Aboitiz Equity Ventures, Inc., acquired late last year a 70% stake in feeds company Eurofeed for $3.2 million.

Pilmico International has a 70% stake in Vietnamese aqua feed firm, Vinh Hoan Feeds, a leading supplier of aqua feed in Dong Thap, Vietnam. — Janina C. Lim

Summer style from Samar

A MAXI DRESS, a sarong, a wide-brimmed straw hat, aviator sunglasses, a new swimsuit — these vacation essentials are all one needs to be set for summer. Using handwoven products adorned with unique patterns and bold colors might just do the trick to help one’s getup stand out. What is even better, by wearing that unique design, you have helped a local artisan earn his/her living too.

The fashion brand Lara (“to weave” in Waray) began as a project by Governor Sharee Ann Tan of Samar to help the workers of they Basiao Native Weavers’ Association (BANWA) in Basey, Eastern Samar who were dealing with the damage caused by typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) in 2013.

Ms. Tan said that weaving was the first industry that thrived after the storm. “After (typhoon) Yolanda, I gave 10 hectares of land for the planting of raw materials,” Ms. Tan told BusinessWorld during the launch of Lara at the Fashion Hall at Mandaluyong City’s SM Megamall on March 10. She said that after a year, she went to an agricultural fair in Samar and was approached by the local weavers who told her that they had already made woven products out of the raw materials from the previous year.

“When I was looking at the designs, they were not really of good quality,” Ms. Tan said, describing the designs as “souvenir-like.” She suggested that product development be done so that the designs would be more fashionable.

The end result was the can be seen in the current lineup of Lara products which include visors, floral and tribal pattern-designed handheld and sling bags, backpacks, shoes, slippers, and women’s accessories, many of which come in bold colors.

Ms. Tan said that the prices range from around P2,000 to P4,000.

The products are handwoven from dried tikog, a jointless grass that is sturdier than pandan or buri, and which grows abundantly in Samar.

Ms. Tan noted that with the livelihood project “we’re helping around 2,000 farmers, weavers, and embroiderers. This is a dream come true for the weavers. People will see and appreciate their work of art,” she said in a mix of English and Filipino.

Asked if the provincial government has any initiatives to preserve the weaving tradition — local traditions of this sort are dying out all over the country — Ms. Tan mentioned plans to incorporate it through education. “Our local weavers are old, that’s why we linked with TESDA (Technical Education and Skills Development Authority) and DepEd (the Department of Education) so we can teach the school children in the K-12 program.” She noted that modules will be given to senior high school students in three municipalities — Marabut, Basey, and Sta. Rita. The products produced by the students will be considered as their school project.

“We will buy them, we will pay the labor, and we will provide the materials,” she said.

Ms. Tan also said that they are currently looking for a location in the national capitol region where they can sell Lara products and are targetting the Makati City area. The products are currently sold only online.

Lara was launched as part of the Spark Samar tourism campaign.

For inquires about the products, call 0917-589-6917, e-mail larasamarph@gmail.com, or follow Lara on Instagram (@larasamarph). — Michelle Anne P. Soliman

China says US soybeans ‘prime target’ over tariffs

CHICAGO — Chinese officials have said US soybeans are a prime target for retaliation against tariffs imposed by the Trump administration on steel and aluminum imports, according to the American Soybean Association.

Farm groups have long feared that China, which imports more than third of all US soybeans, could slow their purchases of agricultural products, heaping more pain on the struggling US farm sector.

Warnings to the soybean growers group about their product being used as a target in trade disputes were made last year, group officials told Reuters on Friday.

They came up in talks between the American Soybean Association’s leaders and officials at the Chinese embassy in Washington and in conversations between Chinese officials and US soybean farmers, when the farmers were on a trip to China last fall, according to the group.

“We have heard directly from the Chinese that US soybeans are prime targets for retaliation,” the trade group said in a statement. “The idea that we’re the only game in town, and these partners have no choice but to purchase from the US is flatly wrong.”

Officials declined to elaborate further. The Chinese embassy in Washington did not respond to a request for comment on Friday.

President Donald Trump signed executive orders last spring that called on the Department of Commerce to investigate whether imports of steel and aluminum were compromising US national security, the soybean group said.

US agriculture trade groups have sharply criticized the White House’s push to move ahead this week with import tariffs of 25% on steel and 10% for aluminum, warning that retaliatory actions could target US exports of grain and oilseeds.

China’s Ministry of Commerce last month launched an anti-dumping and anti-subsidy investigation, potentially leading to hefty tariffs on imports of the ingredient used in livestock feed and the fiery Chinese liquor baijiu. — Reuters

The five big trends from Paris fashion week

PARIS — Balaclavas, headscarves, feisty feminism and the warming glow of yellow and burnished gold… We pick out the biggest trends in the autumn-winter 2018-2019 collections as Paris fashion week finishes late Tuesday.

1. HOODS AND HEADSCARVES
It used to be that if you wanted to get ahead, you got a hat. But that is no longer enough. You now have to wear one on top of a hoodie — if the Paris catwalks are any measure — or simply pull your hood over your hat.

With Agnes b, the doyenne of French street fashion, giving the looks her imprimatur in her ever-elegant show, you know this is more than a tip of the hat but a full-blown trend.

Even before Paris, the hood-hat-headscarf combination was gathering pace in New York with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and Gucci in Milan.

But in the French capital, everyone from Chanel with a balaclava to newcomer Marine Serre was embracing skin-hugging head-coverings. Some of hers and Lanvin’s could easily pass for Islamic.

Balenciaga tied its scarves tightly around the head, channelling both 1950s film stars and housewives, while Agnes b let some of hers trail romantically from the forehead.

2. #METOO, I’M A FEMINIST!
Just like Hollywood, the fashion world has been rocked of late by its own sexual harassment scandals involving some of its biggest name photographers.

In such an atmosphere, labels are keen to prove they were on the right side of history. Agitprop met marketing in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior show, which was thick with feminist and revolutionary slogans from 1968.

Agnes b, who was on the barricades herself back then, did not feel the need to prove anything while New York’s Thom Browne summoned up Marie Antoinette’s proto-feminist portrait artist, Elisabeth Vigee Le Brun, to immortalize his fantastically attired “strong women who cannot be ignored.”

3. HIPS ARE HIP
The hips of one of those strong women — Angela Merkel — became the week’s most unlikely leitmotif. Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia described his new silhouette for his “Basque” jackets as “sculptural tailoring,” Everyone else called them “Merkel hips” for their resemblance to the German chancellor’s outline and very personal sense of style.

Thom Browne also accentuated the hips in his beautifully worked silver and grey fitted jackets and dresses, insisting to AFP that “the shapes evoke (women’s) power and strength.”

4. MARGIELA MANIA
The influence of Martin Margiela, the reclusive Belgian designer who walked away from his label nine years ago, hung over fashion week like Banquo’s ghost. With two new museum shows opening this month in Paris, the catwalk was full of his ideas.

Stella McCartney showed dresses made from coat linings, while Sacai was a symphony of the deconstruction once practiced so brilliantly by the Flemish master.

Two coats wrestled each other into submission on the backs of Yohji Yamamoto’s models — another Margiela trope — while his back to front jackets and hanging sleeves popped up at Thom Browne, McCartney and Balenciaga, where the young Georgian wunderkind Gvasalia regularly references his former employer.

Even the resurrected historic brand Poiret — which last showed 30 years before Margiela was born — quoted his duvet coats.

5. MELLOW YELLOW
While dark and earthy colors dominated — Paris can never have enough black — gold and yellows took the chill out of many collections including Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s much-admired second show for Chloe (watch out for plunging V-neck shirts and dresses).

Jacquemus used saffron yellow to conjure up a Moroccan souk while Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin and Leonard used orange and yellow touches, while Karl Lagerfeld brightened his wintry Chanel collection with burnished gold boots, trousers and jackets. — AFP

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