WHITE WINE consumption in the Philippines is still way behind red wine, and this ratio is “guestimated” at a lopsided 25:75 in favor of the reds. We are, however, not alone in this phenomenon as several of our Asian neighbors, including South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, and China are also red-wine consumption dominant. Despite our tropical weather and high average temperature, Filipinos still like reds over the more refreshing whites. On the other hand, Australia (to name one country) is still 60% white wine consumption, against only 40% red.
STRONGER RED WINE REGION RECALL
The red wine dominance is not really surprising considering that some of the most popular wine regions are better known for their reds than whites, including Bordeaux, Piedmont, Tuscany, Rhone, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, Priorat, Napa, and Barossa.
White wines, on the other hand, performs extremely well only in certain countries like Germany, Austria, and New Zealand. In France, the top white wine regions are Alsace, Loire, and Burgundy — home of the best Chardonnays grown in the planet. Of the three, Alsace has the most varietal versatility, even if Riesling is the undisputed white varietal king in this region. Aside from Riesling, Alsace can also produce the best expressions of Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. Alsace also grows three other white wine varietals: Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat, aside from its only red varietal, Pinot Noir.
ALSACE GERMAN INFLUENCE
The Alsace region is located in the north-east of France, next to Germany and Switzerland, and to the south of Benelux. Alsace has a very unique history among wine regions as it was part of Germany a few times. In 1871, Alsace was added to the German empire following the Franco-Prussian War (July 1870 — January 1871). After over four decades and a half, the French took Alsace back in 1918 under the Treaty of Versailles, after Germany was defeated by the Allies in the First World War. Alsace was once more in the thick of things during the Second World War. Germany re-occupied and annexed the region again in the early stages of World War II on November 1940. People living in Alsace were forcibly made into German citizens by the then Nazi government to help them fight the Allies. The German’s occupation of Alsace ended when the Allies liberated Strasbourg (the capital of Alsace) on Nov. 23, 1944.
It is therefore no surprise that a German influence can be seen, from the language (Alsatian, which is a German dialect), to food, and to wines. This is why Riesling is the main varietal, similar to those from Germany, and not another varietal made popular in the other French wine regions. Alsace wines are also contained in long fluted Rhine bottles, another Germanic association. Alsace has 15,000 hectares of vines with almost 5,000 grape growers. It is protected by the Vosges mountains (the highest mountain, Le Ballon des Vosges, reaches 1,200 meters above sea level). Because of this protection, Alsace benefits from a dry and cold winter, and a dry and warm summer — a continental micro-climate that can make good wines consistently in almost every vintage, unlike those in Bordeaux, Burgundy, and other wine regions.
Eighty-two percent of Alsace wines are still wines, and 18% are sparkling under Crémant d’Alsace.
TRIMBACH ALL WHITE WINE DINNER
Trimbach is among the oldest wineries in Alsace with almost four centuries of existence (since 1626). Trimbach is also a 100% family-owned winery and is presently being managed by both the 12th and 13th generations. Trimbach owns around 25 hectares of their own vineyards with 20% from designated Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. More than 40% of Trimbach wines are Rieslings.
Trimbach Brand Ambassador and famous wine journalist Joel Payne was recently in Manila to preside over Trimbach’s All White Wine Dinner at the China Blue restaurant in Conrad Hotel Manila. This dinner was made exclusive to The Gold Club members — Golden Wines’ in-house wine club. This may be a first of its kind as customary wine dinners always feature both whites and reds, with most dinners gravitating towards majority reds.
The menu of China Blue, created by celebrity chef Jereme Leung from Singapore, has been a welcome treat to fans of modern Chinese cuisines since it opened three years ago, and the four-course menu designed for the Trimbach All White Wine Dinner was no exception.
Four Trimbach wines were featured: the Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Trimbach Gewurztraminer, Trimbach Riesling, and one of the most iconic Alsatian wines, the Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling — named after one of the great-grandfathers of the Trimbach lineage, first released over 50 years ago with its 1967 vintage.
Trimbach’s other iconic Riesling wine is the Clos Ste. Hune, which is also celebrating its century mark with this vintage, as its first vintage was in 1919. The Philippines does not even have an allocation for the Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune, which many wine experts are calling perhaps the best Riesling wine.
THE MENU AND WINE PAIR
The first course was an appetizer set composed of China Blue Signature Mushroom Bun, Green Pear-Shaped Dumpling and Shanghai-Style Soya Braised Fish. This aesthetically crafted opening course was paired with both the Trimbach Gewurztraminer and Pinot Blanc. While the Gewurztraminer appeared and nosed quite sweet, Mr. Payne explained that the Gewurztraminer was actually very dry, with very low residual sugar, considered Brut already by Champagne classification. Both wines paired well with the first course, but I enjoyed the Gewurztraminer a little better than the Pinot Blanc because of the added “white pepper element” it brought to the different appetizers.
The soup course, which was Braised Shredded Fish Lip in Chicken Soup, came next, and understandably with no wine pair. Then came the main course, Roasted Duck with Orange Sauce, with Seafood Fried Rice in China Blue Signature XO Sauce. This was paired with the two Trimbach Rieslings, the classic Riesling, and the Cuvee Frederic Emile 2008 vintage. Once more, both Rieslings complemented the main course, but the Cuvee Frederic Emile was absolutely a marvel at the pairing, with the lime, minerals, and wonderful acid backbone rendering the roasted duck in orange sauce more tasty and flavorful. Mr. Payne also declared that the Cuvee Frederic Emile 2008 is one of the best vintages of this wine in the last two decades.
The dinner ended with a not-so-Chinese, but innovative Coconut Charcoal Ice Cream with Crispy Cheese Cracker.
The successful Trimbach All White Wine Dinner proved that Alsatian wines are great pairs to not only Chinese cuisines, but Asian dishes in general, Filipino food included. The key is the nice acidity that these Alsatian wines inherently contain, plus the unmatched aromatics and food-friendly dry style that are expressed, most especially when it comes to dry Rieslings.
Reservation at the China Blue can be made at (02) 833-9999. For interest in Trimbach wines and The Gold Club, contact Golden Wines, Inc. at (02)638-5025/27.
The author is a proud member of UK-based Circle of Wine Writers (CWW). For comments, inquiries, wine event coverage, and other wine-related concerns, e-mail the author at protegeinc@yahoo.com. He is also on Twitter at twitter.com/sherwinlao.
