BERLIN is not quite in the league of London, Paris, Rome, or Amsterdam in terms of making it to people’s bucket list of European cities to visit. It should be. But it would be good to wait a couple of years from now as the German capital appears to be in the midst of a construction and renovation frenzy, mostly part of the regeneration program that has earned the city the reputation of being among the world leaders in urban renewal and greening initiatives.
Visiting there at the end of spring this year, cranes were jutting out practically everywhere you looked as empty spaces were built on, dilapidated buildings were being torn down to make way for new ones, or old ones were getting an architectural brush-up.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Museum Island has five storehouses that keep a collection of a wide array of pieces from Egyptian items to works of the classic painters. But the island’s best parts, as far as I am concerned, are outside the buildings, like this quiet corner at the foot of a no-car-zone bridge with a view of the Fernsehturm, the iconic TV Tower that is the tallest structure in the city. — All photos by Marifi S. Jara
But all the construction activity was in itself fascinating to observe in a city that is all at the same time shabby, avant-garde, modern and fresh.
A trip to Berlin, of course, calls for a visit to the “wall” which used to divide the east and the west until its fall in 1989. The longest surviving portion is now called the East Side Gallery, which gets a regular restoration. When you come to the end of it, keep walking on to the main intersection, then turn left towards St. John’s Church, which has an exhibit about the wall (all in German, though) and sells pieces of concrete of the torn-down portions of the structure, if that sort of souvenir appeals to you. Past the church are residential buildings and a vast grassy area where people take their dogs for a walk or bask in that precious springtime sun. — All photos by Marifi S. Jara
If you are a patient sort of independent traveler, take advantage of the city’s expansive rail system to move around. It could prove to be dizzying looking at the map, but if you can get your head around the U-Bahn and the S-Bahn and the trams, it is an efficient (you never have to wait long for a connecting ride) and interesting (to get a feel of the locals and their daily routines) way to explore the city. For the less adventurous, there are ubiquitous hop-on-hop-off tourist buses that go around and make stops at the tourism highlights.
No, the historic Brandenburg Gate was not among those under restoration. It is simply a living monument that constantly celebrates with the city. It was Euro Cup season when I visited and the other side of the gate served as a backdrop for a stage (this photo shows the backstage) with a cinema-sized television beaming the games live. Booze booths, of course, were all around the place. The following week, the gate was lit up in rainbow colors in memory of the Orlando shooting victims as a special vigil was held. — All photos by Marifi S. Jara
Either way, you must walk. Walk around the different quarters, take a break at the numerous parks, and listen to cool live music by struggling artists, enjoy both the lovely and grubby views, smile at people, buy a shirt that says: “Berlin, the original capital of freedom,” have a drink, and smell and taste that inescapable currywurst.
Cranes compete with the view of street lamps in this scene near Bebelplatz. — All photos by Marifi S. JaraMy favorite Berlin stop — the Hackesche Höfe. This huge-looking restored complex actually hides within it eight quaint courtyards that are home to small fashion and accessory boutiques, art shops, cafés, and, yes, real-life dwelling units at the upper floors. It is part of the Scheunenviertel area, Berlin’s main Jewish quarter. — All photos by Marifi S. JaraMake the Reichstag your first stop. The free walk up to the dome (book online: https://visite.bundestag.de) is a perfect way to get an orientation of the city and its different areas, and learn a bit of history. Don’t forget to pick up an audio guide, which automatically starts as soon as you step on to the spiral ramp. The dome itself embodies Berlin’s renewable energy push. — All photos by Marifi S. Jara
BERLIN is not quite in the league of London, Paris, Rome, or Amsterdam in terms of making it to people’s bucket list of European cities to visit. It should be. But it would be good to wait a couple of years from now as the German capital appears to be in the midst of a construction and renovation frenzy, mostly part of the regeneration program that has earned the city the reputation of being among the world leaders in urban renewal and greening initiatives.
