THERE’S NO going around it: it’s hot. We’re experiencing summer temperatures into the high thirties, and it feels like 40+, and it feels like punishment. Luckily, the Waldorf Astoria in Bangkok lent out its Thai chef, Akkawin “Pun” Pitrachart to its Hilton sister property in the Philippines, Conrad Manila to help cool down customers at its buffet, Brasserie on 3.

Eating hot food to cool down sounds like an oxymoron, but Southeast Asian knowledge will tell you otherwise. Almost every Asian country has a supremely spicy dish meant to be eaten to cool oneself down.

A study by Bain, Lesperace, and Jay* says: “Under conditions permitting full sweat evaporation, body heat storage is lower with warm water ingestion, likely because of disproportionate modulations in sweat output arising from warm-sensitive thermosensors in the esophagus/stomach. Local temperature changes of the rectum following fluid ingestion exacerbate the previously identified error of thermometric heat storage estimations.” In other words, the body retains less heat when ingesting something with more heat. The scientists in the study based that deduction on warm water’s effects on the body, but perhaps we can use the same logic with spicy food.

Mr. Pitrachart believes that as well. In his native Thailand, “The weather is so hot. People there eat the street food, and they sweat a lot. They drink water — it’s very refreshing,” he said. “We sweat a lot, and it makes us more cool, after we sweat.”

During a tasting on April 12 at Conrad Manila, we of course tried Thai classics like Pad Thai; but also new tastes (for us, at least) like Deep-fried seabass in sweet chili sauce, Braised beef in Massamun Curry, and Stir-fried Minced Pork with Chilis and Northern Peppers. We liked the wok-fried assorted vegetables, also spicy, and definitely cooling. We were struck by the Thai sausages and the roast beef (we did not know that they had a sausage and roasting culture in Thailand). The sausage was very complex, and the roast beef was simple and eager to please. Mr. Pitrachart said that the sausage had galangal, kaffir lime, and chilies, while the roast beef was roasted for six hours (not very simple), and marinated in fish sauce, soy sauce, and sugar (simple).

It’s easy to dismiss Thai cuisine as nothing more than tongue burners, but Mr. Pitrachart, a native, urged us to explore more flavors of Thailand. “We have a complexity of spiciness in Thailand,” he said, comparing Southern Thai cuisine (hotter) with Northern Thai (with which he is more familiar). “It makes you numb, a little bit,” he said about the north’s taste profile, akin to the Chinese mala taste, derived from Szechuan peppercorns. But more than spic-iness, the other prominent flavor in Thai food is saltiness, which he owes to fermented shrimp, which is powdered and mixed in curries and sauces, or else their own version of fish sauce. Comparing their brown liquid with ours, he said, “It’s different. The saltiness, and the flavor; the smell.”

Guests can enjoy Brasserie on 3’s Thai-inspired buffet at a rate of P2,337.50 net per person for lunch (11 a.m to 2:30 p.m) and P2,592.50 net per person for dinner (6 p.m to 10 p.m), available daily until April 30. For inquiries, call 8833-9999, e-mail conradmanila@conradhotels.com or visit https://eatdrinkhilton.com/brasserie-on-3-conrad-manila/.

*“Body heat storage during physical activity is lower with hot fluid ingestion under conditions that permit full evaporation,” A. R. Bain, N. C. Lesperance, O. Jay, 2012 — Joseph L. Garcia

VENON TIAN, Chief Operations Officer of ZUS Coffee, looks like he doesn’t have time for joking around. After ZUS Coffee’s founding in 2019, they’ve managed to open 420 stores — while being interrupted by the lockdowns of 2020, mind you. At year’s end, he told BusinessWorld during the opening of another branch in SM Makati, they’re targeting to have a count of 700 stores in Malaysia. The Philippines, there are now 12 stores, this since the compa-ny’s arrival just five months ago. By the end of 2024, they plan to hit a total of 150 in the Philippines.

By his count, they have 420 stores in their native country, making them the biggest coffee chain there. Arguably the world’s biggest coffee chain, American-based Starbucks, has a smaller footprint, with their own website citing “more than 320 stores” (though Mr. Tian gave us a count of 380).

Their first expansion overseas is in the Philippines. Asked why, he said, “In terms of Southeast Asia itself, Thailand’s got very strong competitors; Indonesia’s got (ten) very strong in terms of fast coffee culture. Singapore — there’s just too many brands.”

“[Its a] nice country to go into,” he said about the Philippines. “You’re very familiar in terms of Starbucks, Tim Hortons (a Canadian chain), and all. Then why not introduce what we have?

“I think the Philippines is much more mature [as a coffee market],” he added.

ZUS, while having physical stores, is helped in its operations through an app. Customers have complete control over their coffee experience, from taste to temperature and order time. Reordering their favorite drink is as easy as a click, providing valuable insights for creating new flavors tailored to their preferences. ZUS Coffee specializes in locally inspired specialty coffees, including Filipino favorites like hot and iced Spanish Latte and Gula Melaka, along-side an array of Buttercreme Lattes, Frappes, and more.

It’s the strength of the app to which Mr. Tian credits their rapid expansion, despite opening right before the pandemic. “We have always been digital-ready, from Day 1,” he said. Recalling the lockdowns, “Instantly, overnight, everyone was ordering everything online.”

As for their beans, Mr. Tian says they source 100% Arabica from different countries such as Guatemala, Kenya, and Papua New Guinea, depending on the coffee bean season, to ensure the best quality. ZUS Coffee is committed to the practice of procuring only Direct Trade Beans. Any form of green bean procurement is done directly with the farmers of the beans and allows for quality, sustainability, and fairer prices that is then translated to the final cup that the customers pay for. Direct trade helps farmers develop to have a more sustainable future and growth. While it’s the moral choice, Mr. Tian said, “That helps us create good quality coffee.”

“You need to like your own product in order for people to like your product,” he said. Another sustainable measure they have taken is the use of rice straws. That stems from Mr. Tian’s own experiences as a diver who has seen the plastic pollution underwater.

“Ultimately, we’re running a business. It’s also making us to be able to sleep better,” he said about their sustainable choices. “In order to make myself sleep better, I want to make sure that whatever we use is actually sustaina-ble.”

The ZUS app is available on Google Play and the App Store. Ordering can also be done through GrabFood and foodpanda. — Joseph L. Garcia