Thailand cuisine can still surprise

A one-night-only dinner at The Pen features unfamiliar dishes
ONE MIGHT THINK that because of the proximity of this country to Bangkok (it’s just a three-hour flight), Bangkok probably holds no more secrets for Manila’s citizens. However, The Peninsula Bangkok’s Thiptara Thai Restaurant Chef de Cuisine Monnipa “Ying” Rungthong still has a few tricks up her sleeve.
On May 30, for one night only, Ms. Rungthong will present her signature four-course menu at Spices at The Peninsula Manila.
BusinessWorld and a few other guests got a taste of the May 30 spread, and then some: some dishes were made just for the preview on May 23. Any dishes of sufficient acclaim might be included in the Spices menu in the future, according to the hotel. Guests can expect delicacies such as Pla Tod Yum Mamuang (crispy seabass and green mango salad), Tom Yum Goong Maenam (traditional tom yum goong), Nua Yang Jim Jeaw (grilled beef tenderloin), and the Khao Niew Mamuang (mango sticky rice).
For our own spread, we got Yum Nua Yang (grilled striploin beef salad with tomatoes, mint, and chili lime dressing), Khao Soi Gai Yang (yellow curry with crispy egg noodles, grilled chicken, lime, and pickle), and Khao Niew Mamuang (mango sticky rice, a classic).
We hadn’t had anything quite like the beef salad before: the meat was definitely hefty but the taste was very delicate; it almost tasted like it was plucked in a garden along with the vegetables. The curry noodles, meanwhile: well, what a treat. The guests at the table sipped and nibbled then chewed with enthusiasm, because the rich curry — made fresh by Ms. Rungthong with a paste of galangal, lemongrass, turmeric, shallots, among others — had just the right amount of heat, a delightful amount of the exotic, but approachable familiarity; so much so that a guest ordered rice to go with it (me). While we refused the mango sticky rice due to an aversion to fruit, we did hear what other guests had to say about it: it had a smoky flavor they haven’t encountered before.
In an interview with BusinessWorld, Ms. Rungthong cited a lit beeswax candle dabbed onto the sticky rice during one of the steps in the cooking process. “That is a secret from Thailand,” Ms. Rungthong said.
She said that she planned the menu so less-known Thai dishes can be highlighted (no pad thais and such here). “I chose something people don’t know much (about)… except for the sticky rice. Everyone wants that.” For example, asked what her favorite Thai dish is, she says it’s a papaya salad — not just one, but different varieties of it.
Ms. Rungthong has a very simple motivation for the way she cooks: “When they’re happy, I’m happy also.”
A selection of cocktails and beverages infused with Thai-inspired flavors crafted by The Peninsula’s skilled mixologists will be available to complement Ms. Rungthong’s Thiptara-inspired menu.
The Spices dinner will be on May 30, at 6 p.m., at P3,500 per person. For inquiries, call 8887-2888, ext. 6694 or e-mail diningPMN@peninsula.com for Restaurant Reservations, or visit peninsula.com. — Joseph L. Garcia