Rolex’ new line inspired by the Oyster Perpetual
THE NEW line of watches for 2020 for Rolex is centered on the Oyster Perpetual line. First introduced in the 1930s, it follows in the footsteps of its older brother, the 1926 Oyster.
The Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, professional divers’ watches par excellence (the original Oyster was used by British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, the first woman to swim across the English Channel during her attempts) are unveiled with a redesigned and slightly larger case. They are equipped respectively with calibre 3230, launched this year, and calibre 3235 (both movements incorporate the Chronergy escapement, developed and patented by Rolex, and offer a power reserve of approximately 70 hours). The new-generation Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are presented with an updated design, characterized by a slightly larger 41 mm case and a bracelet with a broader center link. True to the original model, the new Submariner – in Oystersteel – has a black dial and matching Cerachrom bezel insert. The first version of the Submariner Date is also made of Oystersteel and brings together a black dial and green bezel insert. A second, yellow Rolesor version of the watch (combining Oystersteel and 18-carat yellow gold) has a royal blue dial and blue bezel insert. The third, an 18-carat white gold version, features a black dial and blue bezel insert.
The Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 is presented in a white Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and 18 carat white gold) and features dials in a variety of colors, with either index hour markers or Roman numerals made of 18 carat white gold. The Rolesor version boasts of a diamond-set bezel surrounding an aubergine, sunray-finish dial with 18-carat white gold Roman numerals – the VI is set with 11 diamonds. The three other versions, all with a fluted bezel, are fitted respectively with a mint green, sunray-finish dial, a white lacquer dial, and a dark grey, sunray-finish dial. These watches are fitted with calibre 2236, which includes the Syloxi hairspring, developed and patented by Rolex. They have a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet for the first time. The innovative, high-performance elastomer bracelet on this 18-carat yellow gold version has an Oysterclasp and the Rolex Glidelock extension system for enhanced comfort on the wrist. It is the first watch in the Classic category to receive this Rolex-patented bracelet. This yellow gold version with a bright black, sunray-finish dial offers the high-performance elastomer bracelet with an Oysterclasp and the Rolex Glidelock extension system, which allows fine adjustment of the bracelet for optimal comfort on the wrist. The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is equipped with calibre 9001, one of the most complex movements to be developed and manufactured by Rolex. This calibre includes a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by the brand in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
Like all Rolex watches, they carry the brand’s own Superlative Chronometer certification, symbolized by a green seal. This certification guarantees that they satisfy performance criteria which exceed watchmaking norms and standards in terms of precision, water-proofness, self-winding, and power reserve. The certification is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
Patek Philippe updates its pilot-style watches
WATCH pioneer Patek Philippe has released an updated line of pilot-style watches. The brand introduces the Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, inspired by the brand’s aviator’s watches from the 1930s. It’s also a slight update from 2015’s Ref. 5524G.
The updated version has two time zones (in white or rose gold and with two case sizes) as well as the Alarm Travel Time, a grand complication with a 24-hour alarm, not counting several limited editions. As a medium-sized version of the Ref. 5524G launched in 2015, the Ref. 7234G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time has a diameter of 37.5 mm to fit women’s and men’s wrists.
The round Calatrava case in white gold is sleek with a flat and slightly beveled bezel as well as a caseband that merges almost seamlessly with the strap lugs. The blue lacquered dial, inspired by aviator’s watches, is highly legible even in the dark thanks to applied white-gold numerals filled with a white luminous coating and broad luminous baton hands made of blued white gold. The face is decidedly technical yet timelessly elegant.
The self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS movement consists of 294 parts and features the Travel Time system for displaying a second time zone. All it takes is the activation of one of the two pushers in the left-hand case flank to move the luminous local-time hour hand clockwise (with the lower pusher) or counterclockwise (upper pusher) in one-hour increments. During such adjustments, the local time hand is disconnected from the movement, so the accuracy of time displayed by the minute and seconds hands is not compromised. The skeletonized hour hand continues to indicate home time. Both time zones have separate day/night indicators to simplify time setting on the go and to prevent unintentionally waking up loved ones with a phone call in the middle of the night. As long as the watch owner is at home, the two hour hands are superposed. The two time-zone pushers are equipped with a patented safety system that prevents unintended adjustments of the local time setting.
The analog date at 6 o’clock shows the date in three-day increments to improve legibility without cluttering the scale. A useful feature for travelers is that the date is always synchronized with local time, because the time-zone pushers also increment or decrement the date if the local time hour hand passes midnight either clockwise or counterclockwise.
The new Ref. 7234G is worn on a shiny navy blue calfskin strap secured with a clevis prong buckle in white gold. It is reminiscent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their parachutes and survival kits readily deployable. It includes a second calfskin strap in vintage brown with contrast stitching much like the belts for classic pilot overalls. Both formats of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time are also available in rose gold with brown black-gradated dials (Refs. 5524R and 7234R).
Lucerne holds its Great Watch Sale
LUCERNE is opening the doors of Le Temps in Newport City for the Great Watch Sale of 2020 which will run until Oct. 31. The event is exclusive to BDO Cardholders, and pre-registration is required, with only five people allowed in the store at certain time slots, from noon to 7 p.m. Thirty brands are part of the sale, including Omega, Breitling, Longines, Tissot, Philip Stein, Baume & Mercier, Certina, Ball, and Bremont. For more information and for registration details, visit facebook.com/TGWSale.
