Home Blog Page 11046

Prada gets it. Luxury needs the digital rich kids

YOUNG, RICH and surrounded by high-end toys.
This isn’t Rich Kids of Instagram we are talking about. It’s the new generation of leaders who are taking up roles within their families’ luxury businesses. And given the increasing influence of millennials, online and social media on top-range consumption, that’s just what storied fashion houses need.
Bloomberg News reported this week that Lorenzo Bertelli, the 30-year-old son of Prada’s co-chief executives, has joined the Italian group as head of digital communication. Up to now he’d mainly spent his time as a racing driver.
Four of LVMH Chairman Bernard Arnault’s children are already involved in the business. Last week the group tapped his 41-year-old son, Antoine Arnault, to oversee the group’s image and communications, including social media. This is on top of his roles as chief executive of Berluti and chairman of Loro Piana. Meanwhile, Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert last year elevated his 30-year-old son Anton to the board.
The family-controlled conglomerates have always sought to bring in fresh blood. But luxury adviser Mario Ortelli, of Ortelli & Co, says in the old days this would have involved putting younger generations in charge of emerging geographic markets.
Nowadays, the new frontier is digital, and that is exactly what many of the scions are slotting in.
For example, 26-year old Alexandre Arnault is co-chief executive of Rimowa, and has been spearheading streetwear collaborations at the 120-year old luggage label. He was also involved in LVMH’s recent investment in luxury e-commerce platform Lyst.
Luxury internet sales are growing faster than those through traditional channels. Consequently, the houses are accelerating their digital strategies, and looking to take more control of their sales online.
Fortunately, the younger generations share many characteristics with the millennial customers that top-end brands are desperately trying to court.
According to Bain & Co. and Altagamma, the Italian luxury association, younger customers are increasingly shaping the market. The analysts say groups must adopt a “millennial mindset” if they are to survive.
There are some differences in what younger customers want. They may be introduced to a brand through a logo T-shirt rather than a fragrance or pair of sunglasses, as in the past.
But customers of all ages not only want beautiful products, they demand seamless online service, and a relationship with a brand that is more than transactional, often through social media.
SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP
High end demand is still strong, but there ‘s a risk it could wane later this year
Bain forecasts continued strong growth for the luxury industry this year. There are still risks. Shares in Gucci owner Kering SA and LVMH fell on Thursday after Luca Solca, Exane BNP Paribas analyst, said he saw evidence of a possible slowdown in Chinese demand.
As I have argued, there is a risk that the bling party, which has been in full swing for much of the past two years, starts to lose its fizz over the course of 2018.
There will be few hiding places if this happens. But having a strong online presence, and a plentiful supply of new, younger customers, will help.
When the downturn hits, those rich kids of luxury could turn out to be a valuable corporate asset. — Bloomberg

Restaurants must embrace online delivery, and fast

DOMINO’S KNOWS IT — IHOP, McDonald’s and Panera are catching on.
Restaurant megachains already have a lot on their plate: The industry is too crowded and their menus and supply chains need an overhaul as consumers opt for trendy or healthy ingredients. But they must be careful that dealing with those ongoing challenges doesn’t cause them to miss out on their best hope for long-term growth.
Over the next five to 10 years, nothing will be more decisive than online food delivery in sorting winners and losers in the dining sector. In fact, restaurant chains are at much the same moment that mall-based and big-box chains were in the first decade of the 2000s, when e-commerce had just started to show itself as a massive threat to the traditional retail model.
FEEDING FRENZY
Online delivery is forecast to see a strong pace of growth over the next several years
Just 1.6% of all restaurant industry transactions in 2017 were conducted online for delivery, according to a report by Cowen, Inc. restaurant industry analyst Andrew Charles. The same analysis estimates that online delivery accounted for $19.7 billion in gross merchandise volume, or 3.7%, of US restaurant sales in 2017. That’s roughly in line with the proportion of retail sales that had moved online by 2008. And we all know how different the mall landscape is now compared to 10 years ago.
SWIPE, TAP, SHOP
Online shopping now accounts for nearly 10% of US retail sales.
BON APPETIT
Delivery is forecast to account for some $75.9 billion in gross merchandise volume by 2022, making it a major opportunity for big restaurant chains
Some of the major players in the dining business have gotten the hint. Domino’s Pizza, Inc. has been consistently delivering robust comparable sales growth, in no small part because it was an early leader on digital-enabled ordering. Yum! Brands, Inc., corporate parent of KFC, Taco Bell and Pizza Hut, took a $200-million stake in GrubHub earlier this year, and Panera Bread has built an in-house delivery operation that served 43 states as of May. On Tuesday, IHOP, owned by Dine Brands Global, Inc., announced it is partnering with DoorDash to offer delivery from more than 300 of its restaurants, with plans to expand to close to 1,000 locations by the end of the year.
But others appear to be approaching delivery only cautiously or at a small scale, likely because they’re worried each sale made in this format could be less profitable. But restaurants can’t afford to think that way. In the last year or so, consumers appear to be giving in to the routine of swiping and tapping a dinner order.
IT’S WHAT’S FOR DINNER
The gap is closing between the share of diners who are using online delivery habitually and those who don’t use it and aren’t interested in it
Plus, chains such as McDonald’s Corp., which offers delivery from more than 11,500 of its restaurants thanks to a partnership with Uber Eats, are finding that the average order value is actually larger for delivery orders and that the offering is attracting incremental business, such as during late-night hours. That should offset some of the profitability concerns.
BAIT FOR NIGHT OWLS
Nighttime hasn’t been a particularly strong period of time for McDonald’s, but the company said last year that 60% of Uber Eats orders were placed in the evening or overnight.
Restaurants need to move quickly, because it’s hard to overstate just how many changes this format necessitates. For instance, they have to rethink how they use space in their kitchens and dining rooms. Consider Chipotle Mexican Grill, Inc., which got 8.8% of its sales from digital transactions — including mobile orders for pickup — in the latest quarter. So the burrito chain has been outfitting its kitchens with second “make lines” to handle additional demand from online.
Sit-down chains also need to think about ways to make their food travel well. IHOP, for example, has introduced patented to-go packaging designed to suit the shape and texture of pancakes.
And restaurants may even find themselves wanting to change their menus. Uber Eats has been using its data to help local restaurants launch delivery-only menus. In Chicago, it found people were searching for suddenly popular Hawaiian poke, but there weren’t many options. So Uber Eats reached out to neighborhood sushi spots, which would already have some of the same ingredients, and asked them to try making the dish for the app. Imagine how transformative those kinds of insights could be if applied at the scale of a chain restaurant.
There are, of course, risks in embracing digital-powered delivery. It’s possible some third-party providers flame out, leaving them in the lurch. There could also be consolidation in this arena, which would make for a less competitive landscape and leave restaurants paying frustratingly high commissions.
RUNNING THE DINNER TABLE
Bloomberg Intelligence estimates that GrubHub had a commanding market share of online food-delivery sales last year. GrubHub closed its acquisition of Eat24 in October, adding to its firepower.
And while outsourcing delivery means restaurants don’t have to develop a new competency, it also means they are relinquishing control over how consumers engage with their brand. When diners buy Popeyes fried chicken through Uber Eats, they won’t be interacting with customer service workers that Popeyes trained. They’ll be interacting with some contractor driver. Still, these risks shouldn’t obscure the bigger picture.
On a recent conference call, Nigel Travis, who was announcing his retirement as CEO of Dunkin’ Brands Group, Inc., called delivery the biggest change in the quick-service restaurant industry since drive-thru. He’s not wrong. Just look at all the mall retailers that have vanished or are in disarray because they were late to adapt to the digital swell. The same fate could befall restaurants if they don’t hurry up. — Bloomberg

Tiffany & Co. has built a secret lab to crush its rivals

THE FAMOUS BRAND is using a 21st century workshop to speed its rebound from sparkly oblivion.
At Tiffany & Co.’s new workshop in Manhattan, jewelers sit at wooden desks peering through magnifying glasses as they polish silver rings and twist bits of gold. They’re making prototypes of future products, one-of-a-kind experimental items that may never end up in a glass case.
Their marching orders come straight from Tiffany Chief Executive Officer Alessandro Bogliolo: Rev up the pace of new ideas. Under Bogliolo, the 181-year-old company has been trying to attract a younger clientele with revamped jewelry lines and punchier marketing. Early results are positive. A rebound, which began just before he took over last year, is gaining momentum. Last quarter, Tiffany’s revenue growth was its highest since 2012.
Still, executives repeated the word “newness” a half-dozen times on a recent call with analysts. “We should have newness throughout the year and in the different parts of our assortment,” said Bogliolo. “Newness is not only entirely new designs. Newness is also introducing versions, colors, stones that are new to existing collections.”
Tiffany was, until recently, stuck in a sparkly rut. Megahit styles have been key to its success over the decades, yet the company struggled to come up with new franchises to replace old standbys created by such designers as Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso. To this day, those designs remain some of the retailer’s top stars. The T collection, however — released in 2014 under former design director Francesca Amfitheatrof — has managed to catch on, and the jeweler is putting out additions each season. It now sells more than 130 different T necklaces, rings and bracelets.
Reed Krakoff leads design at Tiffany. The former Coach designer, who’s credited with the handbag label’s rise to prominence, came to Tiffany to save it from stodginess after years of weak sales and few new exciting products. Given a broader, more powerful role than his predecessors, Krakoff runs all creative at the jewelry house, including products, stores, e-commerce and advertising.
His first jewelry line, unveiled to the public 15 months after he took on the role, came out in May. Tiffany considers the collection, which features flowers of diamonds and blue tanzanite, the most significant high-end jewelry launch since 2009.
Dana Naberezny, a bubbly, wise-cracking industry veteran, runs the 17,000-square-foot Jewelry Design and Innovation Workshop that opened in April. A hiring spree is under way, she said — management even has a secret space for bringing in designers, engineers and quality-control specialists looking to jump from rivals, bringing them in through a separate entrance of the nondescript Manhattan building. Jewelers, meanwhile, are subjected to a real-time test where they must show sufficient skill with their instruments in front of watchful eyes.
Naberezny, who worked at Tiffany earlier in her career, returned in 2016 after stints at David Yurman and Movado Group, Inc. She points to rows of empty benches and desks she plans to fill in the next six months. The company is counting on the workshop to churn out new things quicker than ever, with rapid prototyping and cost analysis processes. “It’s to keep pace with the new product introductions that are coming out,” she said. “We want to get that intelligence in here as soon as possible.”
But who really decides what designs you’ll be plunking down thousands of dollars for on your anniversary? Everyone, it turns out.
Representatives from merchandising, design and the prototyping center meet to discuss new projects. Merchants say what kind of jewelry they need, and designers share their ideas. Once a project begins, a group at the new Tiffany workshop — including a CAD designer, an engineer and a quality-control expert — move to desks near one another. Before, there would be multiple handoffs between people in different departments, with each transfer creating lag. Now everyone is in one room making the product mock-ups in conjunction with teams at headquarters nearby.
Miniature versions of the heavy machinery found at a typical jewelry production plant can be seen throughout the workshop, such as laser engravers and sandblasters. One corner has a brick enclave where jewelers can torch items without scorching their desks. Next to a glass partition sits a series of old-school apparatus — chains, hand cranks and rolling presses — reminiscent of a medieval torture chamber. A separate room houses some of the latest technology: five 3-D printers in various sizes for making wax or resin models.
The jewelers only need to make single items here. Work desks are cluttered with all sorts of torches, tweezers, drill bits, handsaws and polishing wheels. Gems and other precious materials are kept in a vault to the side. The whole area is secure, Naberezny said, thanks to cabinets that double as safes at each desk.
Everything that comes out of the center must translate to mass manufacturing, since most of what Tiffany sells isn’t one-of-a-kind. Making one of something is easy, said Naberezny. Making tens of thousands is hard. Tiffany brings suppliers to the workshop and sits them alongside jewelers who can display manufacturing processes right at their desks. All the conference rooms have microscopes hooked up to big screens for meetings with suppliers abroad.
So far, much of the work done at the studio has been for Tiffany’s mass-market and midlevel items, though they sometimes help with the jeweler’s fanciest creations. Uptown, atop Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue flagship store, is where the company’s most glitzy rings, necklaces and bracelets are conjured. They come up with exotic items such as a diamond-stitched collar connected to hundreds of golden fronds and a platinum ring adorned with a massive 26-carat yellow diamond.
But the new studio is where Bogliolo’s plans may live or die. While 50 of the 80 positions at the workshop have been filled thus far (mostly from staff at other Tiffany facilities), competitors with sharp employees should beware: Naberezny’s shiny behemoth is looking to grow.
“If the company wants it in one month, or if they want it in a year, I want to fill that need,” she said. “Whatever the new beautiful idea is.”— Bloomberg

Continuing the BusinessWorld legacy in the age of digital

By Mark Louis F. Ferrolino, Special Features Writer
ONE BY ONE, publishers around the world are shutting down as newspaper sales continue to decline. Amid this gloomy headline, is the print industry likewise seeing its impending demise?
Not in the case of BusinessWorld Publishing Corp., which started in the era of hot lead, typewriters and telegraphs. It continues to thrive in the digital age as a multimedia and multiplatform news source. Through all the changes it has faced, BusinessWorld’s legacy of professional business and economic journalism stands through time.
News consumption is undergoing a fundamental shift. News, which has historically been distributed through print and radio, is now accessible by consumers via mobile devices, right at their fingertips. People, especially the younger generations, may not be reading newspapers as often, but they are still finding out more news and trends at a faster speed though the Internet and social media networks.
MORE THAN JUST A PAPER
This massive digital transformation has brought a strong impact to the entire media landscape, leaving traditional companies behind, especially the print.
In light of all the changes, BusinessWorld has retained and strengthened its position in the industry. The 31-year-old business daily continues to stay relevant and ahead of the curve as it keeps its flagship newspaper alive, embraces latest digital innovations, and hosts valuable events that tackle pertinent issues in the business scene. BusinessWorld’s excellent business journalism has also reached the Philippine television screens as being part of the new local news channel, One News.
BusinessWorld is no longer just a newspaper. BusinessWorld few years now has genuinely a multimedia, multiplatform company. But most importantly, we have retained and strengthened our position as the oldest and living business news and information provider for and in the Philippines,” said BusinessWorld Editor-in-Chief Roby Alampay.
In the past years, the BusinessWorld newspaper went through a few facelifts. From having a content-heavy front page, it now includes infographics that present data in an eye-catching and easily digestible format. Also, considering how smartphones have become a convenient medium for the readers to consume news, the paper also features QR codes that help readers easily access the full story of some articles on its Web site.
Mr. Alampay believes that newspapers remain relevant. There is a segment of the market that still prefers to consume news in a printed format, he said.
Miguel G. Belmonte, PhilStar Media Group and BusinessWorld president and chief executive officer, shared the same sentiment. He said that even in the first-world countries, who have a more advance technology like United States and countries in Europe, newspapers still exist. Citing the neighbors — China, Korea and Japan — as another example, Mr. Belmonte said that there are still newspapers in these countries, and have a circulation of more than a million copies per day.
“What more for a country like ours, where in terms of technology we’re somewhat behind them?” Mr. Belmonte said. “Definitely, newspapers, the way we know it as a diyaryo or physical newspaper, is still relevant here. We still have a big market.”
In addition to this, newspapers, he said, remain a reliable source of information, especially in this era of “fake news.” BusinessWorld, with its broad spectrum of business and economic international and local news, columns, features, and special reports, provides accurate and in-depth stories that policy makers and businessmen can rely on in making decisions.
Meanwhile, bworldonline.com, the company’s first foray in the digital world and was the first news Web site in the country, underwent many upgrades. Last year, in line with its 30th anniversary, BusinessWorld launched its redesigned Website, which is more user-friendly, and emphasizes photos, videos and infographics. To be more engaging with readers, it occasionally creates microsites of special coverages, like the ASEAN summit in 2017.
According to PhilStar Media Group Executive Vice President Lucien C. Dy Tioco, BusinessWorlds content is now easily accessible through several digital initiatives it has implemented. He said that since the launch of the Web site, BusinessWorld’s social engagement has been more active.
THE NEXT GENERATION
To address the needs of business-minded millennials — who are known as digital natives and make up the biggest part of the market — BusinessWorld introduced a digital-first platform called SparkUp.
SparkUp engages the new generation of business leaders through its Web site and print magazine issues that bring timely and well-rounded stories, creatively executed in more customize and fun ways. It also holds events with the aim to empower the young go-getters in transforming their aspirations into reality.
“SparkUp allows us to bring in the new and emerging generation of entrepreneurs and business leaders. It is not just about attracting younger readers, SparkUp allows us to not only be younger but also more relevant for the fast-changing times,” Mr. Alampay said. “It is not just about going digital, SparkUp also allows us to keep a pulse and keep abreast of the changing environment, changing practices, changing structures in human resource, changing work preferences and behavior, even changing regulations.”
Realizing forum and events as a profitable venue for the company, as well as in strengthening its brand and image, BusinessWorld ventures into conducting valuable events, such as the BusinessWorld Stock Market Roundtable and the annual BusinessWorld Economic Forum. These events serve as a great avenue for industry and government leaders to converse on key challenges and opportunities for the nation.
Mr. Dy Tioco said that forum and events being conducted by BusinessWorld is a validation of the kind of stature and capability that it can bring, especially in putting the spotlight on more important issues that the business community should be talking about.
“We were able to create an avenue where pertinent issues could be really discussed,” Mr. Dy Tioco said. “It’s different from other business forum because it’s tightly packed, it’s a day worth of learning because you really hear a lot of speakers.”
Moving forward, BusinessWorld is slowly establishing a strong foothold in the cable television as it was included in the integration of the most trusted media organizations in the country under one channel, One News.
One News is the premier news channel of Cignal TV that features original and local content, ranging from news, public affairs and business. Its programs, among others, are Rush Hour, BusinessWorld Live, The Big Story and The Chiefs.
BusinessWorld personalities, including Mr. Alampay and reporters, contribute their expertise in some of the said programs. These, together with the strengths and capabilities of The Philippine Star, TV5 and Bloomberg TV Philippines, make One News an enviable powerhouse.
“Our participation in One News now brings us to cable television and to being leading news provider on the airwaves,” Mr. Alampay said.
Over the past years, BusinessWorld has carefully developed a stable of offerings that provide the market with an all-around media experience. And in the future, Mr. Belmonte said that whatever direction the company is heading to, it will be always in line with the vision of its founder Raul L. Locsin.
“The late Raul Locsin is a very proud man with very high standards, and the BusinessWorld is his legacy. And even he’s no longer with us, still, we owe it to him as the founder, to maintain the good and proud name of the BusinessWorld,” Mr. Belmonte said.

Who are the influencers?

By Romsanne R. Ortiguero, Special Features Writer
FILTERED SELFIES ‘liked’ a thousand times online. Tutorial videos watched a million times. An opinion written in less than a 280-character limit that goes viral. Behind these posts that proliferate across social media platforms everyday are content creators that continue to attract a growing number of audiences online.
Just like television personalities, these creators on social media, commonly referred to as “influencers,” have reached a certain celebrity status, and are able to amass hundreds of thousands — if not millions — of engaged followers. Given such massive following online, these influencers have been tapped in the recent years for brand marketing, and to some extent, selling of ideas as well.
But what paved the way for these online celebrities to thrive online, and what makes people drawn to them?
According to Dr. Cheryll Ruth R. Soriano, associate professor and chair of De La Salle University’s Department of Communication, the practice of tapping influencers is already an old concept.
“We don’t necessarily call them influencers in the past but you already have prominent people, for example, celebrities, who are able to exert their influence in a lot of different realms whether in sports or in show business among others,” Ms. Soriano told BusinessWorld in an interview.
Ms. Soriano said that the traditional notion of an influencer is connected to the persons’ affiliation within bigger institutions like celebrities or actors whose influence is connected to big media institutions where they are working with.
Sharing the same sentiment, Manny S. Fernando, Managing Director and Chief Experience Officer of advertising and digital marketing agency McCann Worldgroup Philippines, explained to BusinessWorld, “When you talk about influencer marketing, it’s nothing new. Ever since different media channels emerged, the point of influencer marketing has always been there. I guess in that early part, we call it endorsements. As far back as when you had TV and radio stations, the discipline of influencer marketing has always been there.”
“When you talk about influencer marketing, it’s the ability to influence so when you say the ability to influence, it can affect change in terms of opinion, in terms of changing behaviors, so it creates a relevance and importance for marketing.”
While the concept of influencer is already a thing of the past, what made the difference according to the both of them is the emergence of internet and social media.
Mr. Fernando said that the advent of internet enabled a lot of people to create their own content. And as long as people create content, it could be an avenue for brands to be endorsed and promoted.
For her part, Ms. Soriano said that what created the shift is really the term ‘microinfluencers’ or in academic literature, ‘microcelebrities’ — the ones who sprouted in relation to social media.”
“Social media has made it possible for people to create their own self representation, to carve out their own spaces where people can really develop their identities or at least the identities that they wanted to project, and this started the concept of microcelebrities—people who started drawing fans, attention, and support to the point not exactly equal but comparable to your old celebrities or to your old influencers in the traditional sense.”
VALUE, RELATABILITY, AUTHENTICITY
While everyone can easily create content, and with billions of content being published on a daily basis, how were influencers able to stand out and attract a large number of followers?
“I think anyone can create content but not anyone can be an influencer,” Ms. Soriano said, and added that influencers are able to sustain significantly large influence by managing the identity and persona she aforementioned.
This identity or persona — for example, an influencer who consistently posts about fashion, is able to cater to a particular niche audience — helps sustain an influence because they have the capacity to appear to be an expert or kind of retain a certain kind of expertise in relation to a particular realm.
Moreover, Ms. Soriano said people get enamored with influencers because they create value through these ‘expertise.’
“That’s one import thing. You cannot retain influence if you’re not creating value… You kind of consistently create value that people will follow,” she said, adding that one way influencers to these is by sharing tips on a particular kind of topic or expertise.
Ms. Soriano also said that the creation of personal intimacies — where influencers create a notion of intimacy with their audience and their followers — enables them to sustain the audience they have.
“That’s curated. They post things that make them appear relatable but also make them appear close to their audience. It’s a different thing compared to celebrities who may seem unreachable; whereas for these ones, they have this sense of relatability plus intimacy as if you’re just friends. It really creates that affect.”
“They will post snippets in what they do in ordinary days; they will post everyday something that a normal person would do; then they would say, ‘Hi’ to you — that’s also a strategy of curating an intimacy with their followers. You can really see influencers where you can notice that people feel that they can access them.”
For Mr. Fernando, influencers are able to differentiate themselves because of authenticity and believability. He underscored the importance of truth, just as what they are doing in McCann, as an advertising agency who creates value for brands.
“The meaning of the brand is more important than ever because a lot of content are out there, so how do you differentiate yourself? It’s authenticity. Especially here in the Philippines, we’re highly social, we’re one of the highest consumers and we’re the highest producers also of content so it’s important to really to remain authentic,” he said.
He said that inauthentic content has negative repercussions.
“When you look at what’s happening right now, for example, fake news: it can create awareness but if they feel it’s not authentic, you’ll end up being criticized for making that. At the end of the day, even if it can create awareness, did it do what it is supposed to do, or did it (cause) damage? We have a study in McCann where we realized that in the Philippines, if a person is happy about what they saw in a content, eight out of 10 times, they’re going to share it; but at the same time, at the same level, if people basically don’t like it, eight out of 10 times, they will share their disappointment with the brand.”
“Reputation, at the end of the day, actually matters. At the end of the day, that’s brand equity. Did people love you more or did people hate you more?”
INFLUENCERS IN POLITICS
According to Ms. Soriano, politics also started to realize the value of ordinary people or influencers in magnetizing people’s support.
“Politicians have always tapped celebrities in the forefront of their campaigns to endorse them anyway. The use of celebrities for politics for example is problematic because it diverts the attention from the important issues. .. When that happens in the context of social media influencers, when their influence are used to be able to divert attention on maybe what’s important, when an influence is used to distort things, maybe that becomes problematic,” she said.
“It (influence) can really be used for everything. It can be used to promote war it can be used to promote anything.”

Future web tycoons turn to Instagram for retail master class

IT’S THE FIRST DAY of class at Instagram. Students check in at two security desks and sign non-disclosure agreements before heading up to the photo-sharing app’s Manhattan offices. The 20 or so guests, almost entirely women, stride past the cluttered workstations of Facebook, Inc. engineers and into a conference room.
In attendance are executives and marketing managers from various fashion and beauty companies. Birchbox, a seller of makeup and bath products that’s raised $100 million and jump-started the subscription box craze, sent six. Another group from Madewell — J.Crew’s sister brand — sits up front. Big names from denim brand Ayr and Soludos take their seats. Even famed designer Cynthia Rowley makes an appearance, along with the president of her label. So does her daughter, Kit Keenan, an Instagram influencer who has been featured in Teen Vogue and Refinery29.
They’ve all come to learn how to make piles of money using the ubiquitous app. But the folks at Instagram have a lot to learn from them, too.
Vishal Shah, director of product for Instagram Business, told the assembled crowd that he wants to figure out how the platform’s most avid users buy things. “Shopping isn’t a linear journey,” he said. “It’s not even a funnel, in the typical sense. We actually refer to it as the noodle.”
That noodle is about to become the way a big part of the world consumes.
Once, Instagram was a simple photo-sharing app, a way for iPhone shutterbugs to show off their latest cool pics. Now, its visual nature and 1 billion active users have sellers salivating over its potential as a place to sell everything from dresses to furniture. Of those users, 150 million interact with the 25 million or so businesses that have a presence on the app. Instagram has counted a few retailers as partners — including Macy’s and J. Crew — but the platform remains an afterthought for other big names.
Bought by Facebook in 2012 for $715 million, Instagram has spent the past three years trying to solve this shopping puzzle. Everyone is already on their phone, and the mass migration from brick-and-mortar to online shops like Amazon.com is taking the next leap, into the palm of one’s hand and social media.
Yet hype around the dawn of “social commerce” has dissipated of late. Online shoppers have been slow to close their retail apps in favor of social ones. Even now, 54 percent of online buyers never make purchases that begin on social media, according to a 2017 report from visual search company ViSenze.
Smaller businesses are the ones that have found creative ways to hawk their wares on social. Young entrepreneurs are starting online stores that use Instagram to funnel shoppers to their websites. Vintage clothing retailers post outfits and reward the first commenter with permission to buy each one-of-a-kind item, creating a mad dash for dresses and pumps. If you’re too slow, it’s gone forever.
Instagram doesn’t facilitate these purchases, however. It’s all done manually by entrepreneurs. There’s a gap between Instagram and the retail world — a tech entity hoping to understand an industry more concerned with fashion cycles, inventory and merchandising than how to use a flashy new feature on the app.
The company has been studying expanding niches to find out how expert users create commerce — and spreading what it learns.
The class at its New York offices is meant to bridge that gap. “We really wanna invest in this,” said Susan Buckner Rose, director of monetization product marketing at Instagram. “Really, what we want is for these businesses not to just have an Instagram presence, but be able to leverage all these tools.”
Maximizing Instagram’s already huge presence is a good thing for Facebook, and not just financially. The photo-sharing app provides its parent the opportunity to regain some of the cultural cool it lost long ago. Even while Mark Zuckerberg’s social media monster is under sustained attack — for facilitating Russian interference in the 2016 US election, leaking personal data, and not blocking hate speech — Instagram remains unscathed. In fact, some consider Instagram to be Facebook’s savior, given its younger audience and concomitant marketing advantages.
On Facebook, there are neo-Nazis and St. Petersburg trolls. On Instagram, there are sunsets and avocado toast.
Instagram, in other words, is a carefree getaway from the daily grind. For many, that’s what shopping is, too. Bingo.
But it’s not alone in making this connection. The company is encroaching on territory coveted by Amazon and traditional retailers eager to grow online sales.
Amazon Fashion sells clothing through the store’s near-universal Internet presence, and now offers a try-before-you-buy wardrobe service. Department stores all have their own Instagram accounts, driving people to their websites either by promoting individual products or touting clearance events — but that’s just like traditional advertising, not true social commerce.
Instagram is looking to capitalize on this gap by being much, much more hip than everyone else.
Instagram East reflects this attitude. Artwork lines the walls of the Silicon Valley-based company’s new offices on lower Broadway, and there’s a juice bar where employees can grab drinks — in coconuts. On the day of class, there were whispers that fashion icon Donatella Versace was seen in the elevator. The new Instagram venue features a tiny mobile conference room styled after the opulent Versace mansion. She would later appear in a post alongside Eva Chen, the former Lucky magazine editor-in-chief Instagram hired in 2015 to be head of fashion partnerships.
Menlo Park has gone full-on Manhattan chic. The company has been courting fashion’s most prominent personalities and hiring big names — at the office, Chen has hosted streetwear icon Virgil Abloh and designer Prabal Gurung. She also holds master classes for influencers. At the 2018 Met Gala (not exactly tech-nerd home turf), she shared a photo of her with Instagram Chief Executive Officer Kevin Systrom, posing with a who’s-who of Instagram’s biggest beneficiaries, including Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid.
Kay Hsu, Instagram’s creative lead, is a key figure in convincing brands to use Instagram. She attends festivals in London and Cannes to dish about the company’s new strategy. She’s appeared on podcasts with AdAge and written articles for Adweek to explain why businesses should use vanishing content to draw consumer attention while, of course, plugging Instagram.After Shah’s introductory remarks, she took the New York class in hand. What works, then? She spent an hour explaining. You see, amateurs often have to create their photo-shoots from scratch, without all the expensive equipment, and since they don’t have to ask anybody for permission, they can constantly try new things, she said. Shah and Hsu called out various brands that were doing Instagram right, such as shoe label M. Gemi and fitness guru Kayla Itsines. They brought up several campaigns worked on by the marketers in the room and dissected why they were, or weren’t, successful. Itsines, the 27-year-old Australian, uses the app to both grow brand and business. On her account, which now has about 10 million followers, she mixes their photos with workout tips and promotes her own events. Itsines may not be filling her posts with buttons to buy dresses or eyeshadow, but she’s attracting newcomers to her business nonetheless. Later, a series of posts shared by Birchbox flashed on the screen. Two performed well; the other two did not. The appeal of Birchbox, Hsu explained, is the satisfaction of discovering new items when the box arrives in the mail. People enjoy it so much they film and post YouTube videos bragging about their latest haul. So the Birchbox Instagram videos that reveal many different new items to viewers tended to fare better than those that only featured one, she concluded.
Hsu talked about the role of influencers, those social media stars whose followers keep up with everything they do and wear. They’re the envy of all — everyone, it seems, is still hoping to catch up to them. “Right now, those 13-year-olds are doing better content than any of us in here,” she said, then pauses, remembering who is in the room. “No offense.”
While its executives explain what works, Instagram is still trying to learn, and not just from its own users. A variety of startups have bought into social commerce, albeit with their own platforms.
Poshmark, which started in 2011, has raised more than $150 million for its social marketplace, where its “seller-stylists” build their own online storefronts to share with friends. Lyst has raised about $60 million for its peer-recommendation marketplace. The tech giants have their own versions, too — Pinterest began offering buyable pins in 2015, and even Instagram-parent Facebook launched a marketplace in 2016. Facebook rose 89 cents to $195.21 at 10:45 a.m. Monday.
But many of these sites don’t feel all that different from traditional desktop shopping. Community-based bazaars such as Etsy and Poshmark have you browse through individual online storefronts tied to its army of crafters. Design sites Threadless and Cut On Your Bias are more participatory, allowing for collaborative design of new items. Then there are group-purchase services such as Groupon and LivingSocial, which provide flash sale deals if enough people sign up.
On Instagram, the process of buying something can start on the app, but it doesn’t end on the app. Merchants on platforms such as BigCommerce and Shopify can tag products in their Instagram posts, and little boxes designate what’s available for purchase. You can click to find the product description, which appears with more information. Then, you click through to the retailer’s own website, where the item is listed, and complete the purchase there.
While there are numerous ways to present what’s for sale, right now retailers use Instagram’s static feed of photos and sometimes videos. Instagram recently added the ability to sell on Stories, a feature that allows users to post photos and videos that disappear after 24 hours. Executives said they predict there will eventually be a crucial shift from feed-based social media to stories.
Back at the classroom, the students had questions. Why can’t you add tags for both people and products in the same Instagram post? Are you going to make people buy directly on Instagram, rather than click through to a retailer’s website? Why aren’t you allowing longer videos? Are you working on any tools for customer service? Can you make it easier to manage direct messages? Are you investing in desktop at all?
“The color-optimization is usually spot on, but sometimes — it’s not?” someone from Birchbox said near the end of the session. Shah seeks to reassure her.
“Nothing specific to announce right now,” he said, “but know that we’re thinking about it.” — Bloomberg

Kylie Jenner, 20, on cusp of billionaire status — Forbes

KYLIE JENNER attends the Heavenly Bodies: Fashion & The Catholic Imagination Costume Institute Gala at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 7. — AFP

AGED JUST 20 and the youngest member of the extended reality-TV Kardashian clan, Kylie Jenner is on track to become America’s youngest “self-made” billionaire, Forbes revealed Wednesday.
The young mother, who gave birth to daughter Stormi in February, set up Kylie Cosmetics two years ago and the company has already sold more than $630 million worth of makeup, the magazine said.
Forbes conservatively valued her company at $800 million and raised her overall worth to $900 million by throwing in earnings from television programs, endorsements and after-tax dividends.
Jenner owns 100% of the company, which started out with a $29 “lip kit” — matching set of lipstick and lip liner that traded on her trademark pout.
She’s already the youngest person on Forbes’ list of richest self-made US women and another year of growth would make her the youngest self-made billionaire ever, beating Mark Zuckerberg, who crossed the threshold at the age of 23.
“Thank you @Forbes for this article and the recognition. I’m so blessed to do what I love everyday,” she tweeted next to a photograph of the cover story.
Her success has been attributed to her fame and ability to leverage social media. She has more than 110 million followers on Instagram, 25.6 million on Twitter and 16.4 million follow her company directly.
Forbes said the firm has only seven full-time and five part-time employees, with manufacturing, packaging and sales outsourced, and momager Kris handling the business side in exchange for a 10% management cut.
“As ultralight start-ups go, Jenner’s operation is essentially air. And because of those minuscule overhead and marketing costs, the profits are outsize and go right into Jenner’s pocket,” Forbes wrote.
Jenner is the youngest daughter of Kris and Caitlyn, formerly Olympic gold medalist Bruce. Her sister is supermodel Kendall. Her half-sisters are Kim, Kourtney, and Khloe Kardashian.
Reality TV show “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” launched when Kylie was 10 years old. Aged 17, she trademarked the phrase “Kylie Lip Kits… for the perfect pout.”
Forbes said she used $250,000 earned from modeling to pay a company to produce the first 15,000 lip kits, which she spent months teasing on Instagram. They sold out in less than a minute at the November 2015 launch.
That May, Jenner had admitted to having temporary lip fillers. On Sunday, she revealed on Instagram that she had ditched them. — AFP

Twitter’s crackdown on fake accounts will make you look less popular

TWITTERATI, get ready for your digital ego to be bruised.
The social media company warned on Wednesday that its crackdown on fake accounts means users will have fewer followers.
When Twitter, Inc. detects sudden changes in behavior, like spammy tweeting patterns or sharing of misleading web links, it contacts the owner to confirm control of the account. If the owner doesn’t respond and reset their password, Twitter locks the account. This week, the company said it will remove these from profiles, reducing the number of followers users have.
“Most people will see a change of four followers or fewer; others with larger follower counts will experience a more significant drop,” Vijaya Gadde, Twitter’s head of legal, policy, trust and safety, wrote in a blog. “Follower counts are a visible feature, and we want everyone to have confidence that the numbers are meaningful and accurate.”
The company recently said it’s identifying almost 10 million dubious accounts a week and is putting all accounts through a security check. The stock slumped earlier this week on concern the crackdown would dent user growth. While it excludes spam accounts in reported user data, Twitter noted early this year that monthly active user numbers would be “negatively impacted” by efforts to expunge fake accounts.
Removing locked accounts from follower counts won’t impact Twitter’s monthly or daily active user metrics, the company said on Wednesday.
“Our digital ecosystem is being polluted by a growing number of fake user accounts, so Twitter’s commitment to cleaning up the digital space should be welcomed wholeheartedly by everyone, from users of the platforms, to creators and advertisers,” Unilever Chief Marketing Officer Keith Weed wrote in an e-mail to Bloomberg. “People having an artificially inflated follower count made up of bots and redundant accounts is at best deceiving and at worst, fraud.”
Unilever was among the major companies that threatened in February to pull advertising from social media services, including Twitter, because of a rise in hate speech, abusive content and fake news. Bloomberg LP produces TicToc, a global breaking news network on Twitter. — Bloomberg

Facebook makes moves on Instagram’s users

IN LATE JUNE, Spencer Chen got an unusual notification from Instagram. The app prompted him to check out a friend’s new photo—on Facebook. Chen grabbed a screenshot and posted the notification on the internet, calling it a cry for attention by the older social network. It felt like a cheap trick, he says, like “placating big brother in the Facebook building.”
Chen is one of the tens of millions of people who used Instagram before Facebook Inc., acquired the photo-sharing app in 2012. Ever since, he says, he has anticipated the day when Facebook would start messing with the photo app to suit its needs. That day, he says, has come.
There’s no denying the power dynamic between Facebook and Instagram is shifting. Instagram has 1 billion users, more than Facebook had at the time of the acquisition. The property is worth more than $100 billion, according to a recent analysis by Bloomberg Intelligence. And Instagram keeps growing among a younger set of users who are critical to Facebook’s growth. Also, Facebook users have been flocking to Instagram’s photo- and video-based app as an escape, tired of the political bickering and privacy scandals that plague the parent company. Users averaged 53 minutes a day on Instagram in June, just five minutes less than on Facebook, according to Android data from analytics company SimilarWeb. As growth of its user base slows, Facebook’s future is more certain with Instagram than without it.
“We would not be this confident in Facebook’s future if it wasn’t for Instagram,” says Rich Greenfield, an analyst at investment bank BTIG. “They’ve done a really good job with the cross-pollination.” That’s a big change from the years right after the $715 million acquisition, when Instagram depended on Facebook for advertiser relationships and the infrastructure needed to grow.
Instagram says what Chen experienced was a product test with a small contingent of users. Still, Instagram feeds Facebook in other ways. Last year, Facebook launched its own version of an Instagram tool called Stories, which lets people post videos that disappear within 24 hours. (The feature was initially copied from Snap Inc., a competitor.) Greenfield noticed the Facebook version became more popular once it became possible for Instagram users to post their stories in both places with the click of a button.
Instagram Stories’ 400 million users present a significant opportunity for Facebook’s advertising business, according to Ken Sena, an analyst at Wells Fargo Securities. Instagram is on track to provide Facebook with $20 billion in revenue by 2020, about a quarter of Facebook’s total, he wrote to investors. And cross-posting could help Facebook’s video ambitions. The company recently launched Facebook Watch, a television-like platform that it’s spent hundreds of millions of dollars on, mostly for content. That was followed by the rollout of Instagram’s IGTV, an app that allows anyone to produce and post longer-form videos. Instagram has a more natural relationship with influencers, who have built up huge followings on the platform, so it hasn’t had to pay for them to use the new feature. Any of them can decide to cross-post their videos to Facebook. “Maybe that becomes a driver for Facebook Watch over time,” Greenfield says.
“We would not be this confident in Facebook’s future if it wasn’t for Instagram”
So far the company hasn’t taken advantage of that opportunity, according to Krishna Subramanian, who works with top digital celebrities at Captiv8, a firm that measures influencer marketing. While “it does seem like Facebook is continuing to test notifications within Instagram,” he says, “from what we see on our side, it still looks like Facebook and Instagram are very separate products.”
What could lead to closer ties in the short term are some executive moves that went into effect in May. As part of the shuffle, the biggest in Facebook’s history, Chris Cox, its chief product officer, took charge of Instagram, WhatsApp, and Messenger, in addition to the main app. Adam Mosseri, the former head of Facebook’s news feed, was named vice-president for product at Instagram, reporting to Instagram co-founder and CEO Kevin Systrom. Mosseri has been at the company 10 years and has deep relationships with Cox and Chief Executive Officer Mark Zuckerberg. “Adam has personally helped build a lot of the Facebook experience you use on your phone today,” Zuckerberg wrote about Mosseri on his Facebook page this week.
The company often talks to advertisers about all its products collectively. According to a person familiar with the matter, Facebook recently started an incentive campaign with some brands that covered three products at once: ads on Instagram Stories, on Facebook Messenger, and in the middle of Facebook videos. The person, who declined to be named for fear of losing the Facebook relationship, says it was the first time his client had received such an offer.
“The promo you heard about is not unique,” Instagram said in a statement. “We are continuously working with advertisers to help them find and discover the best formats for ads across the Facebook Inc. family.” — Bloomberg

Despite the advent of online retail, Filipinos still love the mall

By Michelle Anne P. Soliman, Reporter
IT IS SUNDAY. EDSA — typically heavy with 350,000 vehicles per day — finally breathes. The traffic, instead, moves indoors, where people flock inside the mall.
To many Metro Manila residents, it is family day, and family day is spent inhaling the cool, crisp air-conditioned breeze in the comforts of the mall. It starts with Sunday mass happening in the mall’s chapel, followed by lunch at — you guessed it — one of the restaurants that have set up shop in the mall. The entire family then troops to the top floor, where the cinema is located, but not without a quick trip to the boutiques which lure customers with a glaring SALE! sign at the door. The day is capped with a lingering pit stop at the coffee shop — again, also in the mall — before the family heads back home and gets ready for the coming week. The largest shopping mall chain, SM, wasn’t lying when they said they’ve “got it all.”
Shopping malls have become an integral structure in country. What is simply a place for shopping to Westerners is a place for leisure for Filipinos. It has evolved into a destination for hosting business meetings and operations, as well as a venue for government transactions through satellite offices. Commercial development has grown and is no longer exclusive to urban areas, as it is slowly branching out to the provinces. Despite the advent of online retail, Filipinos are still in love with the mall.
In May, SM Prime Holdings, Inc., the country’s largest shopping mall operator, recorded a 15% profit increase with a net income to P7.6 billion in the first quarter of 2018, compared to the reported P6.6 billion during the same period in 2017. The shopping mall business generated a 59% revenue at P13.9 billion.
According to data published by the Philippine Statistics Authority (PSA), “The Philippine economy grew by 6.8% in the first quarter of 2018,” compared to the 6.5% growth in the same quarter of 2017. GDP growth indicates an increase in disposable income among Filipinos.
“Significantly, GDP is driven by consumer consumption or spending. So as GDP increases, demand for more retail shops in malls increases as well. With the government’s massive infrastructure program, accessibility stimulates business activities in the countryside. These pave the way for our mall development, expansions, and re-development,” John Nai Peng C. Ong, chief finance officer of SM Prime Holdings, Inc. and Steven T. Tan, chief operating officer of SM Supermalls told BusinessWorld in an e-mail.
THE MALL AND MALL-GOER: THEN AND NOW
The idea of leisure dates back from the Spanish colonial period with the introduction of the plaza the community converges. These included the city hall, a church, and a law court.
According to Dr. Rolando B. Tolentino (Sa Loob at Labas ng Mall Kong Sawi, 2001), professor at UP Film Institute in Diliman, Quezon city, the plaza was the place for socialization within the community. “The idea of leisure is Spanish with the [introduction of] plazas. It’s a democratic space that allows [you] to promenade. There is a playground or field, and there you can sleep under the trees or [have a] picnic. It is also where you do your political speeches or civic duties,” he told BusinessWorld in an interview.
“It was intensified by Americans because they added onto the plaza the music grandstand for the band. They also made beauty pageants. They also introduced sports — basketball, [and] baseball. You had a kind of multi-facetted space for community, [and] social life to manifest itself,” Dr. Tolentino said.
It was during the American period when shopping malls were first introduced in the Philippines with the construction of the Crystal Arcade in Escolta, Manila in 1932. It was the first enclosed airconditioned establishment with its interior having glass covered display windows.
At present, malls are a part of the modern metropolitan landscape with many of them in almost every city and situated in Manila’s major highways.
The early designs of the mall, as we know it now, were “[in the shape of] shoeboxes. [There was] maximum optimization of space,” Dr. Tolentino said.
“Then, you had the kind of malls that mimic[s] that kind of a beehive mode,” he said citing Trinoma and Edsa Shangri-la Plaza as examples. “[Those kind of] malls that you would really get lost [in], not just with the immensity of space. It’s calibrated to make you lost — to lose yourself, literally and figuratively. The more you lose yourself, the more tendency you will spend.”
The location where a mall is developed also contributes to the idea of a “citified culture” in cities. Dr. Tolentino added that the development of commercial areas is “purporting to be a more progressive city than the actual city itself.”
In the case of SM Prime, malls are developed according to market capacity. “We consider the market capacity based on population size, market potential, and market needs. Knowing the area profile and demographics is the basic data needed but understanding the community’s daily grind and concerns, inherent values and priorities will help us provide the correct mix of potential tenants who may be able to address the market demands. We also consider strategic property location. Accessibility to foot traffic and potential business trade centers are a few determinants of a strategic location,” Messrs. Tan and Ong wrote.
Environmental planner and landscape architect Paulo Alcazaren said that the location of malls in the Philippines originated from location model patterned in the United States. “The center of towns (in the United States) was expensive and the most efficient place to put them (malls) because they are a car-based society, they situate big box malls near the interchanges of their highway systems,” he told BusinessWorld in a phone interview.
“The mantra of commercial development is ‘location, location, location.’ If you’re in retail or anything that involves people buying goods or services, well mostly goods, restaurants where people eat, it’s really [about] location. Development companies that are involved in retail make studies as to where the best place to locate this (commercial establishments) and that depends on like they said, pedestrian traffic or gravity modeling depending on which determines catchment area of the mall or lifestyle center where it is located,” Mr. Alcazaren added.
The developers’ continuous revenue growth gives opportunity for the rise of more malls in cities and expansion in rural areas. Over the years, malls have also changed their design and have evolved to cater to the consumer’s needs.
“Even the oldest mall needs to regularly renovate and refurbish itself. It needs to update its look. Look is very important because it’s a culture of images in malls — culture of first world image of things that we can aspire for,” Dr. Tolentino said.
Messrs. Tan and Ong describe the “2018 definition” of a mall as a lifestyle destination. “Malls used to be known just as a shopping place. But now, it has evolved into a lifestyle destination, offering unique and fun-filled experiences for customers from all walks of life.”
SM Prime recently recorded from May 11 to June 10, 2018 that the average daily foot traffic in SM Megamall alone is 179,139.
“Change is an inevitable constant. It brings about challenges to spur growth. Amidst this scenario, SM Supermalls espouses the value of positive disruption thereby challenging ourselves to come up with solutions and innovations that meet and uplift our customer needs and wants,” Messrs. Tan and Ong of the unique SM malls’ characteristic. “The traditional shopping and food retail are still present in our malls, but their service offering and concepts are evolving in response to the changing style preferences, values, and palettes of our customers. We have seen how they evolved and grew through the years. With the rise of technology, virtual reality and experiential concepts are now in stores.”
“On top of offering more diverse retail store formats, integrated developments like the office and BPO towers play a part in the viability of our malls. Malls that anchor lifestyle cities will be the new norm as more people realize and feel the need to live, work and play in the same community. A roof deck that will house a FIFA grade football field, a live performing arts theater, a botanical garden — all these will soon rise as we continue to commit redefining malls,” Messrs. Tan and Ong wrote on the innovations done to make malls relevant to visitors.
MALLS AND TRAFFIC MANAGEMENT
A balance of efficient city planning, infrastructure, and mass transport system is necessary to manage density in the city.
“Each SM Supermall team is tasked to collaboratively work with the local agencies to ensure smooth traffic flow. Traffic planning is a must before we build a mall. Pre and post mall opening are mapped out ahead of time. SM Supermalls was also the first to adjust its mall hours in response to the changing lifestyle and schedules of its shoppers. Our malls in high traffic districts have been adjusted to 10 am to 10 pm. On Christmas holidays, we adjusted our closing hours to 12 midnight in anticipation of the holiday rush,” Messrs. Tan and Ong wrote on mapping out traffic flow within the mall’s vicinity.
“The rule of urban design or city planning is to manage this process within a larger context of infrastructure development. So, you don’t locate where there is not enough infrastructure to support an increased level of traffic, either foot or vehicular,” Mr. Alcazaren said.
“That’s where a lot of the things are not entirely satisfactory when the context for the locations for these malls, centers, or mixed used development are not thoroughly thought out by the large private development that they’re in or LGU that hosts it. Beyond the large private developments of metro Manila which involved areas/districts like BGC and Ayala, or the smaller extent Araneta and Eastwood. There’s a bit more support from infrastructure because private development has shown that it understands that it needs a support location with infrastructure,” Mr. Alcazaren added, citing the proximity of the given mixed used developments to the railway transits, and other means of public transportation.
“But once you get out of the developments themselves, that’s when you have problems like say when you step out of BGC District or Ayala’s District into the larger mess that we call Metro Manila, then, you hit your problems,” he said, pertaining to one’s change in attitude from the feeling of security in malls or developed districts to a shift in cautiousness when navigating the streets. “In outlying areas in the provinces, the magnitude of the problem is a bit less, but it still affects anything past the within where they developed or LGUs that host them,” Mr. Alcazaren said.
A mass transport system is a necessary solution to alleviate traffic in the business districts in urban areas.
“The solution to symptomatic issues like traffic is really the mass transport systems that should have been thought of even before we tried to densify our cities. If there is an efficient integrated mass transit system like the MTR in Hong Kong or MRT in Singapore where infrastructure can support larger densities of both business, commercial, and residential development. If we had those systems beforehand, then we wouldn’t have the traffic which comes mainly from vehicular traffic,” Mr. Alcazaren said, noting that despite the availability of public transportation options, many still depend on private vehicles.
Despite awareness of an architect’s practice, there is limited knowledge of urban planning among Filipinos. “Filipinos understand what buildings are, but most of them don’t know what an urban designer or landscape architect or environmental or city planner is, because there are not many of us…In the Philippines, there is a limited number of firms that specialize in urban design and planning,” Mr. Alcazaren said.
Mr. Alcazaren also suggests that schools should understand urban planning and how it has affected economic life. “Some concepts of urban design have no translations. Our educational system [has to be] more urban-oriented.” He also urges higher institutions of learning and schools of architecture “to produce more research and accumulate more knowledge on how urbanities affect Philippine socioeconomic life.”
MALL INTERIOR
In terms of the mall’s interior design, convenience is taken into consideration when in the space planning of malls which drive sales growth. “Like for example, SM Hypermarkets are strategically located either on the ground floor or basement parking areas for easier transport of goods to the customer’s car. The all-day dining and cafes are most likely to be found at the entrance of the mall when customers are in need of a waiting area when meeting someone or when waiting for their ride to arrive. Food and beverage establishments (F&Bs) are located at the Skyparks on the roof deck to where customers/shoppers can find a more relaxing place to enjoy quality time with family and friends,” they wrote.
“A smile and happy experiences are what needs to be fulfilled when a customer goes to SM Supermalls. We meticulously focus on providing the best customer service and convenience to each customer. That is why we provide full-service offerings making our malls a one-stop-shop. Feeling the pulse of the market, we ventured into pioneering the introduction of unique services such as fitness gyms, ambulatory clinics, government agencies, and chapels for worships — everything in one place,” Messrs. Tan and Ong wrote.
“Filipinos go to the malls for various reasons — as a destination, as a transient, as part of their daily routine. There are so much to mention but one thing is sure — our SM malls allow people to get together and engage with each other as they enjoy the space, the activities, and the entertainment all in one roof where a safe and comfortable respite is freely available to all. Being inside this safe haven gives one a sense of happiness, relief — a relaxed feeling that encourages them to shop, to eat or do errands before going home or the next destination.”
Dr. Tolentino notes changes on mall design interior. “Malls have midday sun lighting, until ang thinking mo maaga pa, hindi pa gabi para mawala yung notion of outside at ang mahalaga lang yung inside na mall experience. Things have changed nung mga 2000s nang ma-realize na the outside should be incorporated (Malls have midday sun lighting, until one would think that it is still daytime and not yet evening to lose the outside notion and focus on the inside mall. Things have changed around the 2000s when they realized that the outside should be incorporated,” he said, citing that malls have added gardens inside the malls. “Malinaw na gusto nilang mag-create din ng space na yung outside pwede nilang gawin na mas maganda inside. (It is clear that they want to create outside space which can be achieved better inside).”
As for strategic location of amenities, Dr. Tolentino noted the presence of movie houses in the malls’ topmost floors, “Movie-going is no longer a mass experience. It is now a middle-class experience because the ticket is costly,” citing that it costs half the daily minimum wage in the work force.
In addition, Dr. Tolentino commented that as consumers, nowadays, “You go to your own mall,” stating that practicality and being purposive in terms proximity and taste are considered when visiting malls.
“It also takes cognizance of the fact that we have no public spaces other than the malls. We have more malls than parks in Metro Manila. Part of the ‘malling’ experience is [really] just walking around in a kind of leisurely way until you tire, head home, even without making a purchase. The mall is an embodiment of a first world site that is very sterile, very safe [supposedly]. It’s a utopic universe wherein the things might work if the Philippines just might become first world,” he said of the kind of environment malls have cultivated for consumers.
THE RISE OF ONLINE SHOPPING
Online shopping and e-commerce has also affected the shopping behavior among Filipinos.
“Online shopping may be the future of retail in the global scene. But Filipinos by nature are known to shop until they drop, to eat or munch on something every 2 to 3 hours, to entertain and be entertained, to be around people or to be seen by others,” Messrs. Tan and Mr. Ong wrote.
“We’re not affected by online shopping. I think the way to go is to embrace them and to co-exist, because with the growth of the economy, there is room for everyone,” Mr. Tan said in a separate interview.
With the advent of online shopping and e-commerce, SM has developed an online portal which is set to be operation this year. “Our business task is to connect online purchases with physical store experiences through omni-channels, using our “click and collect” concept, they wrote.
THE MALL EXPERIENCE
Due to the growing population, increasing remittance consumption generated by OFWs, and city developments, malls have become a necessity.
“Urbanized areas are expanding on all locations. Of course, the mall has become the modern market place; there’s a need for them. The thing we have to look at is how to we properly integrate a mixed used development into the fabric of this expansion areas and how are these expansion areas for urban development better configured,” he said, noting that developments should be part of an efficient transport system, serviced by infrastructure other than transport such as water and power, a place with a sense of community.
An enlightened developer, according to Mr. Alcazaren, will study the effects of what they have done in the previous years, the right and wrong, repercussions, and how to build better in the future to make contributions to community building alongside business profit.
The rise of social media has also influenced consumer behavior as visitors have treated mall activities as experiences to be shared.
“Today’s shoppers have evolved. They have higher demands and expectations — they want to be informed, entertained, and want to be constantly presented with new concepts, entertainment, activities, service offerings, products, in a fresh, exciting way. We have seen how technology has changed the way they shop and dine,” Messrs. Tan and Ong wrote.
“Social media like Facebook and Instagram have influenced consumer behavior tremendously. These have become a platform for sharing experiences, opinions, and ideas engaging and encouraging consumers to try a lot of new things and experiences. People just go online to search for what is in and they get more from the readily available feedback and comments from the buyers on their products/services,” they added.
Dr. Tolentino equated the behavior in mall-going to the use of social media. “It (mall-going) is like [how we use] Facebook. We spend a lot of time in the mall, but it has not enabled us to create actual public spheres. Marami man [sa] atin ay nagmo-mall, pero hindi naman tayo nag-uusap. There are many of us in Facebook, pero wala naman talagang communication na nagaganap other than [mag] ‘like.’ (Many of us visit malls, but we rarely talk. There are many of us in Facebook, but no communication really happens other than liking posts).”
“The propensity to spend a lot of time, even if you will not do anything — just to fight off boredom, at least you’re not at home, you do not think of your problems, or you’re passing time — you’re at the mall. It’s similar with social media,” he added.
“I think our malls have been integrated into our culture with which we have now produced inter-generations of ‘mall-ers.’ We now socialize infants, [and] kids, even our lolos and lolas into the mall experience,” Dr. Tolentino said of the regular weekend gesture of visiting malls where everything is available.
Likewise, Dr. Tolentino also believes that malls will continue to develop as “governance has come into the malls,” citing that one may visit the mall to process documents such as clearances, birth certificates, and licenses. “Even the state has recognized the viability of malls as a kind of alternative site in governance. Though it’s no longer going to be a mall for consumerism, it’s going to be a mall to contain all aspects of our social life or needs.”
“It’s becoming more integrative because it enters all our experiences…Hindi nalang siya for shopping. Pumupunta ka na rin doon for a lot of services na dati wala sa purview ng isang mall experience (It’s not only for shopping. You go there for a lot of kinds of services that were not previously in the purview of the mall experience),” he said.
Five more SM Supermalls are set to open in the provinces. It is not unlikely that the mall will remain a fixture in Filipino culture in the years to come.
But why could they be so fixated?
Lahat ng ito (All of this) is really designed towards creating an alternative universe of first world modernism,” Dr. Tolentino said. “Samantalang, sa labas (Meanwhile outside), immediately, if you notice, you snap out. [Ka]pag pumasok ka ng (Once you enter the) MRT, mas mabantay ka na (you become more cautious).”
After all, in a city where the daily commute is a nightmare, a Sunday where pleasant new memories can be created is a saving grace. — with reports from Zsarlene B. Chua

Is Airbnb really disrupting the local hotel industry?

By Joseph L. Garcia, Reporter
IT IS MAN’S DESTINY to move, and in between each movement, there is a need for shelter.
For centuries, people who travelled from one place to another depended on hotels — and its various variations (e.g. lodgings, inns and hostels) — for their needs for shelter, and maybe a hot meal.
The hotel evolved through time not just to provide shelter, but to provide experiences that become part of the journey, as in five-star suites where travelers find a fine home in a foreign land.
In 2008, however, some air beds twisted the plot.
During a design conference in the city, two San Francisco residents, Brian Chesky and Joe Gebbia, responded to the demand for hotel rooms in the area by renting out air mattresses.
But more than just the extra buck, the more important takeaway is that they unawarely gave birth to a new service: offering the security of shelter stripped off the lavish accoutrements of a hotel. The two then teamed up with Nathan Blecharczyk to launch a site in time for another conference, the Democratic National Convention in 2008.
From its humble beginnings renting a bunch of air beds, the company called Airbnb (a nod to the air mattresses plus “bnb” for bed and breakfast) recorded 80 bookings — a number that is minuscule now, considering that Airbnb already boasts of five million Airbnb listings worldwide, and over 300 million guest arrivals.
A report by the Financial Times states that the aggregation platform, which sells through a website and mobile app, earned $100 million last year, and bookings grew about 150%, while revenues amounted to $3.5 billion, according to the same report.
More importantly, Airbnb has been valued at $31 billion according to The Atlantic, making it the second biggest start-up in America after Uber, with annual revenues doubling by the year.
Airbnb has earned the reputation of being the disruptor of the hotel industry. But is the hotel business really suffering?
OCCUPANCY

​In the Philippines, hotel occupancy in Metro Manila increased in 2017 by two percent, according to a report by Colliers International Philippines. While occupancy rates are projected to hover only between 65 and 75 percent for the next 12 months, more than 4,000 rooms are expected to be added to Metro Manila’s hotel room stock.

Last year, it was quite the opposite — at least in the United States — where hotel occupancy enjoyed its best year ever. Stock prices for Marriot and Hilton, both major hoteliers, were up by 40% in the last 12 months, according to the same report by The Atlantic.
Meanwhile in the Philippines, hotel occupancy in Metro Manila increased in 2017 by 2%, according to a report by Colliers International Philippines. While occupancy rates are projected to hover only between 65 and 75% for the next 12 months, more than 4,000 rooms are expected to be added to Metro Manila’s hotel room stock.
Asked if Airbnb made a dent in their revenues, Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila’s revenue analyst, Renz Gacutan said, “being a resort hotel, we are not affected.”
Part of the Paris-headquartered AccorHotels Group, Sofitel sits loftily in its position with a reputation as one of Manila’s best hotels.
Its structure was built during the Marcos regime to accommodate delegates from the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank. The hotel was first held under the Westin brand, after which it changed hands to the AccorHotels group.
The facility offers a luxurious experience from its food and beverage outlets and its well-kept grounds, which offer pools, spas, and a stunning view of Manila Bay. Former US President Barrack Obama has stayed in its most expensive suite, and the hotel remains a top choice for visiting dignitaries and celebrities.
“Most of our guests book leisure staycations,” he added. “The properties that will be mostly affected [by Airbnb] are those in the city centers which are often catering to both business and leisure guests.”
BusinessWorld then contacted Discovery Suites Manila, a hotel located near the Asian Development Bank in one of the country’s financial districts in Ortigas.
The hotel has several other properties in Makati (another business district), Tagaytay (a mountain resort town), and in islands in Boracay and Palawan. Its hotel in Ortigas itself has been recognized several times in the industry, with its food and beverage outlets gaining listings in the Miele Guide, and achieving multiple Certificates of Excellence from Trip Advisor.
Its general manager, Leeds Trompeta, admits himself that he is a user of the Airbnb platform. “I myself am a hotel guest, and at the same time an Airbnb user,” he said.
“It all depends on the objective or purpose of travel as well as the destination,” he added. “If I’m a business man, for example, going on a three-day business trip paid for by the office, my company will put me up in a hotel because they already have a contract with them, or have an established relationship with them. When traveling on my own, it depends where I’m going, after all the research and touchpoints, I may opt to book an Airbnb.”
Mr. Gacutan of Sofitel agreed, saying, “Airbnbs normally offer accommodation and the experience of living in a specific area but do not necessarily offer luxurious amenities that are part of a luxury hotel such as restaurants, or a gym with physical trainers.”
DELIVERING CULTURE
Both agree, however, that the sanitized environments of hotels might prevent a traveler from seeing the real destination and really feeling the emotions of a journey.
“Airbnb is great at delivering culture to its users,”said Mr. Trompeta. Airbnb hosts, after all, are usually locals who have lived in the environment for a long time, and possess insight about what makes their own communities tick. “Airbnb is somehow limited to backpackers or light travelers who are more interested in experiencing the city or the area rather than the accommodation itself,” said Mr. Gacutan.
“Travelers visit, on average, about 38 websites in their ‘research phase’ before deciding where they want to stay, and Airbnb is just one of those touchpoints. What Airbnb did was introduce and elevate the ‘micro-moments.’ It spoke to the cultural purist that isn’t looking for a cookie cutter accommodation but looking to immerse themselves in a new city — understand the neighborhood, understand how people live, and engage with the culture,” added Mr. Trompeta.
Hotels, closed off by an insulating wall from unpleasantness, may not always provide the high that travelers want to experience. This may tie up with how millennials, a large chunk of the travel market, do not always seek material bliss and comfort, but both the charm and harm of real experience.
Both see, however, that the wall built between the fantasy world of hotels and the reality of certain locales are actually one of the advantages of staying in a hotel.
“Hotels are held to a high degree of standards and regulations for the protection of its guests. From customer service, government and sanitary regulations, data privacy and confidentiality, these are all standards that give travelers security and assurance that their stay will live up to a certain expectation,” said Mr. Trompeta.
“Airbnb the platform may have a strong data-privacy assurances or safe guards,” he added. “However, you’re not just dealing with Airbnb. You’re dealing with a unit owner who has your details. How are they handling that particular data? Are they subjected to the data privacy laws? And of course regulations — do they all have sanitary permits? Do they have proper sewage? Do they follow environmental laws?”
PLAYER
Either way, both acknowledge the reality of Airbnb as a player to be recognized in the hospitality industry, even if so far, Airbnb and hotels manage to thrive together.
“In this digital age, Airbnb really pioneered accessibility, ease and flexibility — promoting not just accommodation but experiences. It was offering something different from the safe choice of the chain hotels,” Mr. Trompeta said.
“This actually pushed us to understand how our guests were evolving,” he added. “We took steps to engage our long staying guests with activities outside the hotel — exposing them to different city experiences, i.e, [shopping in] Greenhills, Salcedo Market, etc. In fact, today we try to veer away from just talking about the hotel and our food — but rather focus on what you can do in the city.”
The story of Airbnb is not just a story of the change in the track of hospitality, but the change of traveling as an exercise. Traveling, in its most basic sense, is moving from point A to point B. Now, there is an urge to soak up every experience possible, to live life in another person’s shoes, in a limited time frame.

Is the future of auction houses online?

By Nickky Faustine P. de Guzman, Reporter
WE’VE BEEN REDUCING our activities to the comforts of our small screens: shopping, dating, banking, studying, even attending funerals and masses. The same goes for art viewing and buying, as in the introduction of purely online auctions in the Philippines that started two years ago. Despite its convenience, the questions begs to be asked: How does technology disrupt the dynamics of traditional auctions?
Live auctions are where the action is. Here, bidders have their own paddle boards bearing different numbers, which they have raise to outbid each other for a coveted Jose Rizal sculpture, a Ronald Ventura piece, or one of Fernando Amorsolo’s iconic rural landscapes. Every successful bid for an art piece ends with a literal “bang” as the auctioneer hits the gavel to a block, and the winner — obviously the one with the most money to spare — takes home a piece of art.
But a totally different atmosphere, one that is silent and spiritless, happens on the web. The thrill of raising a paddle board to mean you want to bid, the chase for an item, the feeling of outbidding a competitor, and even the shame of having to withdraw from the ongoing war because shelling two million for a wooden chair is too much, these, and more, are all absent in purely online auctions. In online auctions, it’s just you and your computer.
“Anybody can do online auction, it is the convenient way to bid, but of course, there is still the traditional manner. I like the thrill of the live auction, the sizzle of the moment. I still prefer it,” Leon Gallery owner, Jaime Ponce de Leon, told BusinessWorld on May 10 at the sidelines of a media conference for the launch of latest live auction, which happened on June 9. “But then again,” he continued, “online is also very good.”
Leon Gallery, one of the few auction houses in the country, started the art of virtual auction in Manila, holding its first ever online-only auction on July 30, 2016. The gallery now does both live and purely online auctions. Mr. de Leon said it is a trend abroad, pioneered by international industry dominants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, Inc., because more and more people find it hard to physically come and participate in face-to-face public sales.
“While online auctions have wider reach, they are more for the minor lots, or the ones that can be done via online. Like the same way it happens in Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and other international auction houses, the minor pieces, like jewelry, are done online. Live auctions, meanwhile, are concentrated on the bigger lots, the pieces that collectors would intentionally come, see the auction, and bid for themselves,” said Mr. De Leon.
online auction 2
Besides jewelry pieces, minor lots may include furniture and small paintings. But regardless of the medium, interested buyers are encouraged to go visit a gallery few days before the auction date to see and scrutinize in person the items that are up for grabs. Others can also check the e-catalogues available on the websites.
Through Leon Exchange, the online website for Leon Gallery’s online auctions, anyone can participate in the gallery’s virtual public sales. Participants must log on to www.leonexchange.com’s website to register and bid. All information for a specific lot are given on the website including the name of the lot, lot number, opening bid, the number of bids placed, current bid, remaining time until the auction ends, starting and ending dates for bidding, picture or pictures of a lot, user name, and description of the lot. International websites, like Sotheby’s (www.sothebys.com), have the same procedure, and also remind online bidders to refresh the page to update the details. Participants receive e-mail whether they have to bid higher, or they have won or lost in the virtual art war.
Save for Leon Gallery, the other houses in the country, Casa de Memoria, Salcedo Auctions, and its subsidiary, Gavel and Block, however, do not do purely online auctions just yet. They have absentee, online, and phone biddings, instead, for people who cannot go join the live action. The three agreed they all need to establish their names and credibility first, and for the greater public to understand how auctions work, before they even go purely online.
“We are planning to roll out our online auctions soon. In the next year, we are planning to put more emphasis on our online presence so we can attract a larger pool of clients. Although because of our auction house being a new auction house we would like to build our brand and clientele in the traditional manner first,” Casa de Memoria’s marketing manager, Camille Lhuillier, told BusinessWorld via e-mail.
Started in 2016, Casa de Memoria is the youngest of the three main auction houses in the Philippines. It specializes in antiques and heirloom pieces for homes. Meanwhile, both Leon Gallery and Salcedo Auctions started in 2010, while the latter’s subsidiary, Gavel & Block, was launched only last year.
Meanwhile, Salcedo Auctions said it is busy cementing its credibility. “Salcedo Auctions and its subsidiary Gavel & Block, as the pioneers of the Philippine fine art auction industry, seeks to first build the public’s understanding of how the auction process is supposed to be conducted, and at same time, build the public’s trust and confidence in this venue and methodology for selling and buying valuable collectibles. We have a duty to uphold and set standards, and so while we embrace technology, we also wish to balance it with responsibility, objectivity, and discernment,” said Salcedo Auctions owner Richie Lerma in an e-mail interview.
online auction 3
Salcedo Auctions, on its website, says it is “The only auction house in the Philippines specializing in fine art and design, furniture, decor, jewelry,timepieces, valuable books, maps, numismatics, ephemera, and rare automobiles.” Leon Gallery, meanwhile, boasts on it site that “it is primarily known as the leading gallery specializing in historically important and museum-quality Philippine art. Old Master paintings such as those done by Juan Luna, Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo, Fabian de la Rosa, and Fernando Amorsolo lie at the core of Leon Gallery’s collection.” The gallery also sells Philippine antiques, heirlooms, and estate pieces.
There are also other reasons why Salcedo Auctions and its subsidiary Gavel & Block has not yet started its own online-only auction.
Mr. Lerma said: “In an unregulated auction market such as the Philippines where certain galleries purport to do auctions when what all these outfits are really doing is just trying to move inventory in the guise of auctions, and where there are no systems in place to verify the existence of bidders and sales, the move to doing only purely-online auctions at this stage in our view is premature as it adds another layer — the cloak of technology — that has the potential of further obfuscating the market.”
Another disadvantage of online-only auction is the inability to see the other person you’re bidding against. “What if it’s a computer or just a member of gallery staff on the other end of the line bidding against you to push the price up?” said Mr. Lerma, while adding, “Of course, in a live auction, you also don’t really know who’s on the other end of the phone, and where those absentee bids are coming from, but there are certainly more safeguards in place, and cues from an event that it is held live in front of potentially millions of viewers that gives that extra assurance to prospective bidders.”
As for Mr. De Leon, he said such line of thinking could only be thought by those who intend to cheat.
Personal live bidding, at the end of the day, is still king. “Online auctions are indeed part of the ways by which auctions can gain new markets and greater reach, but there is still absolutely nothing that compares to seeing the pieces going under the gavel and block in person, and bidding on the pieces live, where one can feel the atmosphere in the sale room, gauge the competition, and see whether or not there is real interest in a piece,” said Mr. Lerma.
online auction 4
Although, on the upside, online auctions are cheaper to put up, saving houses from hiring auctioneers and setting up for a few cocktails and snacks. Also, despite some upsides of the Internet meddling with art appreciation and art buying, as in the option to zoom the screen and the convenience of a reliable 4G wherever you are, all auction houses agree that the traditional auction is the best medium to see and seize art. “It’s still a tradition where serious collectors like to bid on their own pieces and have a good time. I think that, sometimes, having a solely online experience of an auction takes away from the inherent spirit of what an auction is,” said Ms. Lhuillier.
While majority of the auction houses in the country are not jumping into the purely technology-mediated business just yet, all of them are utilizing the power of social media to gain more bidders and enthusiasts.
Salcedo Auctions started the use of Facebook Live and Instagram Live, where audiences from whenever could watch in real time how live auctions take action. Its Twitter, meanwhile, has not been updated since 2015.
“Our pioneering Facebook and Instagram Live for all of our auctions is about upholding the integrity of the auction process — keeping our auctions open and transparent as the trusted name in Philippine auctions,” Mr. Lerma said. “Viewers can actually see live what transpires on the block — the bids that are fielded from the floor, from the phone, and via absentee and online bids; what sells and what doesn’t. We are proud to announce what record prices we are able to achieve, but we are also not shy to show what does not sell, because that is what a real market and a real auction is all about. It is, after all, a public event, open to all to see, understand, analyze, dissect, discuss, and appreciate.”
While Leon Gallery and Casa de Memoria have not jumped in on live streaming, they also use their Facebook and Instagram pages and Stories to promote their events and share their activities. Casa has no Twitter page while Leon has just set up its own in May.
While technology provides opportunities for our industries to grow, some businesses will have to remain basic and traditional at its core.
“I think that technology is part of the future of auction houses, but I don’t believe that one day, all auctions will be online,” said Ms. Lhuillier. “A big part of the art market and the art world is how the collectors interact with each other and how collectors and buyers like to get into the spirit of a live auction and take part in all of the action.”