NEVER HAVE I felt both so young and so old as when I visited Lan Kwai Speakeasy & Hong Kong Cuisine. Parents, you have to make a decision whether to beat them or join them at a new bar in Katipunan that offers great meal offerings as well as great drinks.

Lit up with red lights showing Chinese characters and a neon sign saying “Wish You Were Here” and painted with murals depicting kitschy Hong Kong scenes, one might try to imagine that one is on the set of In The Mood for Love, if not for the tinny pop music emanating from the speakers. While kids populated the bar on the night of BusinessWorld’s visit, a certified tita (aunty) with a handbag and glasses hung on a beaded cord waited patiently along with them, waiting for an order of noodles.

We couldn’t blame her: BusinessWorld ordered the pork asado noodles, swimming in a comforting broth with hints of star anise, while the generous pork chunks were sweetish and tender. We couldn’t be stopped, and we ordered a bowl of duck rice – crescents of tender duck laid on a bed of fluffy white rice, glazed with a made-from-scratch char siu sauce (according to co-owner Carlos Munarriz).

The drinks as well contain an element of maturity in them, and, titos (uncles), we can’t blame you if you try them; just stay away when the sun sets and the kids start tippling. This seasoned drinker tried out their Uh Huh Honey Mule, flavored with ginger and mint, and while it may be a touch sweet, it’s still comparable to drinks served in more upscale bars.

ONE OF the signs decorating Lan Kwai Speakeasy & Hong Kong Cuisine, whose interiors and food are inspired by Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong. — JOSEPH L. GARCIA

The interiors and the food take their cues from Lan Kwai Fong, also called LKF, a bohemian party district in Hong Kong.

“They’re the ones who went there, and got inspired from all the places they’ve been to,” said Mr. Munarriz of his business partners.

The bar has several tricks up its sleeve: for example, the executive chef, who also works for Enderun’s Restaurant 101, makes most of its stuff from scratch, and sources most ingredients locally. “As fresh as it gets,” said Mr. Munarriz.

And speaking of fresh, the bar has only been open about three weeks, yet BusinessWorld already saw that it was bouncing. Take a cue from their marketing: “I think it started out with one person who tweeted it,” said Mr. Munarriz. – Joseph L. Garcia

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