GUCCI’S new collection, called “La Famiglia” (The Family in Italian) “is a study of the ‘Gucciness’ of Gucci, an expression of the brand as a mindset and a shared aesthetic language,” said a statement. La Famiglia marks Gucci’s return to storytelling, going back to the future by way of the past, defining the aesthetic base upon which designer Demna’s Gucci vision will be built leading up to his first show in February.
It reinterprets the House’s codes through framed portraits of an extended Gucci family, captured by Catherine Opie, made up of singular personalities and distinctive aesthetic attitudes: the different facets of Gucci’s personas.
The lookbook opens with L’Archetipo, a monogrammed travel trunk that highlights the House’s origins as a valigeria (leather goods store or factory), followed by the Incazzata (a rough translation has to do with being incensed with anger) in a 1960s-style little red coat that reflects her fiery demeanor. La Bomba’s (the bombshell) volatile feline sass is mirrored by her stripes, and La Cattiva (the naughty girl) embodies the severe elegance of a femme fatale. Miss Aperitivo is simply preoccupied with having the time of her life, while L’Influencer embodies the social media fashion enthusiast. La Mecenate, La Contessa, Sciura, and Primadonna exude refined Italian elegance, while Principino and La Principessa capture two sides of the same coin: the center of attention — these are all mostly Italian archetypes found in literature, media, or even in the home.
The collection includes slingback kitten heels and soft leather mules; while heritage signatures are revisited and revived. The Gucci Bamboo 1947 bag, a 78-year-old signature, is re-proportioned, alongside the Horsebit loafer, a House icon since 1953. The Flora motif appears as is or reimagined in a nocturnal incarnation. The GG Monogram, Guccio Gucci’s initials, appears throughout, worn with head-to-toe abandon, from lens to loafer.
Silhouettes span extremes, from the maximalist grandeur of a feathered opera coat and high jewelry to the neo-minimal sensuality of seamless hosiery garments. Dressing for pleasure is emphasized, and glamour is carried over into menswear. The elegance of eveningwear is applied to transparent bodycon sets and sophisticated black-tie swimwear. — JLG
