At NY Fashion Week, bows, ‘boundless expression,’ and NFTs
NEW YORK — The design duo that is The Blonds closed out New York (NY) Fashion Week on Feb. 16 with a runway show that sparkled with hand-sewn outfits covered in laser-cut crystals, glittering heels and jewelry.
The brand, which co-designer Phillipe Blond described as extremely over-the-top, sparkly and dangerous, found inspiration in vampires and the Matrix for its Fall 2022 collection.
“We have this techno romantic, sort of like Grace Jones vibe tonight,” said Mr. Blond.
The line was filled with a custom print created from a photo of a studded corset from the brand’s archives.
There were crystal embellishments and embroidered pieces on the dresses, pants and catsuits, and fun accessories including finger gloves took looks to the next level.
Phillipe and David Blond are known for creating fun moments in their shows. This season choreographer Parris Goebel performed on the catwalk, whipping a long braid around her.
‘CONCEAL AND REVEAL’
Veteran designer Michael Kors turned his inspiration of New York at night into reality for his New York Fashion Week runway show on Feb. 15.
Taking over live music venue Terminal 5, Mr. Kors, 62, said his Fall/Winter ’22 Collection is about stepping out at night and during the day after quarantining.
The line was filled with statement-making coats paired with something provocative underneath.
“To me, it’s all about this sort of conceal and reveal,” Mr. Kors said. “So you’re going to see tonight a lot of really impactful outerwear and jackets because I think in a city, it’s ultimately your calling card.”
Mr. Kors described the outerwear as high-octane featuring hues from bright tangerine orange to electric pink and knitted shearling coats to chocolate brown faux crocodile coats.
“The coat you put on really is your street fashion show,” Mr. Kors said. “Then when you arrive, whether you’re going to someone’s house for dinner or a restaurant, then there’s the reveal.”
Grammy-winning artist Miguel provided the soundtrack for the show, singing hits like his “Pineapple Skies” and Prince’s “Raspberry Beret.”
“I love live performance, and I love the energy of live performance, and I know that so many people have not really been fortunate enough to be able to get out and see an amazing performer with electricity, live. There’s nothing like it,” said Mr. Kors.
On Tuesday, Louis Vuitton, LVMH’s top fashion brand, announced it will raise prices globally as a result of increased manufacturing and transportation costs. Mr. Kors said he did not think customers would mind paying more for practical, sustainable quality pieces.
“It’s like anything, you know,” he said. “Do you want to have junk food every night? No, you’d rather say, alright, let me save up and have the best meal.”
BOWS, ’80s NOSTALGIA
Designer duo Mark Badgley and James Mischka turned back to their 1980s student days for their fall 2022 collection at New York Fashion Week on Feb. 15, presenting an array of elegant dresses adorned with large bows or detailed shoulders.
In a video release of their latest Badgley Mischka creations, models wore gowns with drooping sleeves. Suits sparkled with sequins.
The designers revisited their assignments undertaken as students, including at couturier Charles James’ exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, Zandra Rhodes’ exhibition at Parsons School of Design, the Costume Institute at The Met as well as dressing fashion shows for New York designers.
“We went back to when Mark and I were first in New York and we were in Parsons at art school and were enthralled by all the costume history by Charles James, by all this Cecil Beaton photographs that we were studying at the time,” Mr. Mischka told Reuters.
“We … looked at that through our 1980s lens and overscaled some of the proportions and things for the season. … That was when … people really went out all the time … and so we wanted to bring those same sort of feelings of extravagance and grand gestures to this collection.”
Dresses had plenty of bows — decorating fronts, sitting on sleeves or adorning waistlines. One jumpsuit was tied at the neck.
Some frocks came ruffled at the front, others were one-shouldered, in chiffon or decorated with flowers.
The designers were inspired by pictures taken by British society photographer Beaton for colors, using shades of tobacco, blush, scarlet, olive, midnight blue and black. Fabrics mixed luxury with comfort.
Like other labels, Badgley Mischka has enjoyed the current wave of soaring demand for high-end goods as customers splash out following lockdowns.
“It’s the pent-up desire. … We’ve been in business for 35 years and we just came off our best month ever in the history of Badgley Mischka with special-occasion clothing,” Mr. Badgley said.
“Neiman Marcus is our number one … retailer and we just had … the most banner last few months, this last quarter, with them, which is so exciting and it just tells you that enough’s enough.”
SEIZING THE MOMENT
In his fifth year as creative director for Carolina Herrera, designer Wes Gordon continues to revamp the brand’s signatures — and at his latest show on Feb. 14 during New York Fashion Week, the focus was on the use of bows as embellishments, sashes, and even on accessories.
Mr. Gordon said the line is all about bravery and seizing the moment.
“The moment is right now for clothes that incorporate all of those elements. Our woman, I think, has stopped thinking of special occasions and then going to buy a dress for it. Instead she’s buying special clothes and clothes that can turn any moment into an unforgettable occasion,” explained Mr. Gordon.
Florals, fringe and ruffles were used delicately throughout the fall/winter 2022 collection on both ready-to-wear and evening looks.
Heart-shaped bodices on strapless gowns were a perfect fit for the Valentine’s Day show.
Hues were bright and inspiring while denim was given an upscale flair with gold embellishments.
Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue magazine, was a fan of the collection.
“I think it’s wonderful to see such beautiful, dramatic and sensational evening clothes,” she said of the presentation.
DIGITAL RUNWAY
After closing all his stores, veteran fashion designer Tadashi Shoji said he has been able to keep his business afloat during the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic thanks to the success of e-commerce and custom sales.
The Los Angeles, California-based brand released its digital runway show online on Feb. 12 during New York Fashion Week.
Keeping costs low, the video was filmed in the company’s cafeteria with creative lighting and editing.
“Logistically it’s very hard, but it’s very fortunate for us because of COVID our e-com is increasing tremendously. That’s helping me to survive in this COVID time,” Mr. Shoji said.
“If we didn’t have this strong e-com infrastructure for us I think, I think our business went down,” he said.
Mr. Shoji said this season was inspired by “boundless expression” and has added different silhouettes to his normal body-con repertoire.
Menswear was the inspiration for many looks with stretch velvet, shimmer and slits providing femininity.
The designer’s signature draped tulle, lace and hand beading made the collection look familiar to his long-time fans.
Meanwhile, emerging talent Marrisa Wilson made her runway debut on Feb. 15 with a collection inspired by the explosion in popularity of digital spaces.
“I’m sure you’ve seen everything that’s going on. Metaverses and NFTs and, you know, all these things that kind of feel really far and out there,” she said, referring to non-fungible tokens (NFT), a type of digital asset.
“But I really wanted this collection to… create a space for women, in particular women of color, to be able to explore and participate in those spaces. Right now that space is really heavily dominated by white men,” she said.
The Fall 2022 line was filled with graphics and prints to evoke what she calls a “futurism aesthetic” and “excitement for the unknown.”
Her collection features silky jackets and pants in black, white and deep red.
“And then the last drop you’ll see will be this… explosion of the digital lavender,” she said, explaining that the designers “heavily leaned” into periwinkle, the Pantone color of the year.
“Purple, that’s a sense of like calming in these digital spaces,” she said.
During the show three NFTs, hand-drawn by Ms. Wilson, were displayed and available for sale. In addition, 10 limited-edition commemorative bomber jackets will link to a specific NFT.
New York Fashion Week ended on Feb. 16 with over 150 designers having presented their collections live or online. — Reuters
