Paella with a twist for the holidays
OF FILIPINO-Spanish descent, chef Kevin Christian Ereñeta has adapted his family’s heirloom paella recipe for the holidays.
Named after the chef’s father, Don Manolo’s Adlay Paella features adlay — also known as adlai, Job’s Tears or coix seeds — a plant native to Southeast Asia whose grains are a substitute for rice or corn. The same plant is widely utilized as a cereal, traditional medicine, soups and to make liquor.
“Adlay is a delicious and versatile functional food,” Mr. Ereñeta said. “It is also very Filipino — it gives the dish more character, gravity, and depth.”
A Culinary Arts graduate from De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde School of Hotel, Restaurant, and Institution Management, Mr. Ereñeta has a goal to improve traditional dishes with the aid of science.
While he pursued a master’s degree in Food Science from the University of Santo Tomas, he became interested in functional foods — ingredients that offer health benefits that extend beyond their nutritional value — through his mentors and scientists Dr. Rosario S. Sagum and the late Dr. Trinidad P. Trinidad from the Department of Science and Technology Food and Nutrition Research Institute.
He trained under the award-winning chef Linda R. Junio, and honed his skills at the kitchen of Café Ilang Ilang of the historic five-star Manila Hotel. He teaches the next generation of chefs at Benilde.
Mr. Ereñeta’s heirloom recipe follows.
DON MANOLO’S ADLAY PAELLA
(Makes five servings)
Ingredients
Caldo/Stock
30 ml olive oil
300 gm prawn heads and shells
30 ml brandy
3 L water
225 gm mussels, cleaned
225 gm Manila clams, scrubbed
225 gm squid, cleaned and skin removed
300 gm or 8 pcs prawns, trimmed and deveined
ADLAY
60 ml olive oil
100 gm Spanish chorizo, bias cut (include fat)
225 gm pork belly medium, diced
250 gm chicken thighs, cut into 2.5 cm
25 gm tomatoes, diced
25 gm bell peppers, diced
25 gm onions, diced
10 gm garlic, minced
370 gm adlay
5 gm Spanish paprika
1 gm saffron
960 ml caldo
30 gm green beans, ends peeled and blanched
25 gm lemon wedges
50 gm whole pitted black olives
Rock salt as needed
Pepper as needed
Procedure:
1. Make the caldo by searing prawn heads and shells in a pot with olive oil until prawn heads and shells appear to have a whitish orange color.
2. Deglaze with brandy and reduce until nearly dry.
3. Pour water and simmer for two hours with a temperature of 70°C or until a rich dark orange color stock has been achieved. Remove prawn heads and shells once done.
4. Blanch all seafood in the caldo. Set aside and cover.
5. Season the pork belly and chicken thighs with salt and pepper.
6. Sear the pork, chicken, and chorizo individually in a paellera using the fat from the chorizo and olive oil. Remove the pork, chicken, and chorizo after searing. Set aside.
7. Reduce the heat and sweat the sofrito (onions, garlic, tomatoes and bell peppers) over low heat (60°C).
8. Pour the adlay and cook until each granule is covered in fat.
9. Season the adlay with salt, pepper, paprika, and saffron.
10. Continue cooking the adlay for one minute over low heat (60°C).
11. Pour the caldo and season with salt and pepper.
12. Return the pork, chicken, and chorizo into the pan. Distribute the components evenly.
13. Cover the pan and simmer over medium heat (75C) for 30 to 45 minutes or until cooked al dente.
14. Re-blanch seafood and blanch green beans. Adjust the paella seasoning as needed.
15. Top the adlay with the seafood, green beans, and lemon wedges.
