Singapore creates its own gin
AS a former part of the British Empire, it’s not surprising to find influences of Britannia in Singapore. One such example is gin, Britain’s favored libation from the 17th century onwards, finding a home in Singapore’s favorite cocktail, the Singapore Sling (made with a base of gin, coupled with cherry liqueur and pineapple juice, among others).
“I felt that was such a shame, because as a local cocktail, we should actually have our own local spirits to be used,” said Jamie Koh, founder of Brass Lion Distillery.
Brass Lion Distillery, which opened last year, is Singapore’s first standalone micro-distillery, and its first product is gin. Ms. Koh was in the country recently to promote her product in partnership with the Singapore Tourism Board.
The entire process to open the distillery took several years. Ms. Koh is a restaurateur and a bar owner, but her observation on the dearth of local spirits urged her to make her gins. She studied distilling in two states in the US, and even found herself in Germany’s Black Forest, getting tips from makers of the local schnapps.
Another challenge she found was finding all the necessary licensing to open the distillery right smack in the city. In an interview with BusinessWorld, she said she didn’t want the distillery to be a purely manufacturing facility, but wanted it to be an experience: for example, in Brass Lion, there are mini-stills so groups can make their own bottles with the botanicals on hand. “It’s never been done before,” she said about opening a distillery in Singapore. “With regards to the licensing, people had no idea what a distillery was.” In rule-crazy and obedient Singapore, having the correct procedure to do everything was a must. “We had to kind of rewrite the rule book, and made up the rules together with them.”
Framed by two skyscrapers, the Brass Lion boasts of an herb garden, a bar, tasting rooms, and a retail shop.
The ingredients used in the gins are a reflection of all the cultures that have made Singapore their melting pot: Indian spices, Chinese medicinal herbs, and tropical fruits have all been mixed together with a British-influenced gin base to create a potion that reflects the country’s history and culture. According to Ms. Koh, all the botanicals, numbering about 22, have been sourced from a five-kilometer radius. “Gin allows us to showcase the variety of botanicals that we have in the region.”
BusinessWorld got a taste of three of their products: Singapore Dry, Butterfly Pea, and Pahit Pink. Singapore Dry, its basic blend, has a crystal-sharp flavor, a refined scent like perfume, and a bite on the tongue, ending with a swallow that feels like a gasp. Butterfly Pea uses the blue-tinted flowers, resulting in an ultramarine gin that turns purple or pink depending on how much tonic water you use. It has a refreshing scent of lavender, consistent with its taste. Pahit Pink, meanwhile, an almost-fiery red, is made with a local herb used in folk medicine. It’s no surprise then that it tastes a bit medicinal, and is best splashed over ice.
Ms. Koh has different ways to extract the flavor from botanicals: from maceration to using a steam basket. Each ingredient is treated differently, according to its anatomy. “Even with the best ingredients, if you don’t distill it the right way, it also affects [the taste].” The handmade quality of the gin is reflective of changing tastes: gin was a favored drink of those more advanced in age, or those looking for a quick stupor — it was once called Mother’s Ruin in the UK. “I think now, people are getting more discerning and they really want more interesting products.” — Joseph L. Garcia
