José Zuccardi: Argentina’s wine visionary

WHEN VINEXPO ASIA returned to Singapore last May, the energy may have felt more subdued compared to its 2023 debut, but for me, it was all about encounters with fellow oenophiles, both new and old acquaintances.

One of the more memorable moments that stood out in this Vinexpo was my spending some time at the Zuccardi booth, with no less than José Zuccardi, the second-generation steward of Familia Zuccardi, one of Argentina’s most acclaimed wine dynasties. It was a rare opportunity to taste their diverse portfolio, including their natural wine line under Santa Julia, and their most prized wines from the Finca Piedra Infinita series while having the one and only José Zuccardi himself present.

LEGACY ROOTED IN INNOVATION
The Zuccardi story began not with wine, but with water.

In 1963, Alberto Zuccardi, a civil engineer, planted his first vineyard in Mendoza’s Maipú region — not to make wine, but to demonstrate his innovative irrigation system. What started as a technical showcase soon evolved into a lifelong passion for viticulture.

By 1968, Alberto had built a winery, and the Zuccardi name began its journey into Argentina’s wine history.

Alberto’s son, José Zuccardi, joined the business in 1976 and transformed it from a bulk wine producer into a global brand. José was among the pioneers who successfully pitched high quality Argentine Malbec to the world, helping redefine the country’s wine identity.

Today, José and his son Sebastián Zuccardi (third generation), are the father-and-son tandem managing and growing the Familia Zuccardi business.

The winery exports to over 70 countries and has earned accolades such as World’s Best Vineyard for three consecutive years (2019-2021) and was named New World Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast in 2022.

Zuccardi’s most iconic wines are from their Finca Piedra Infinita series. Finca Piedra Infinita — which roughly translates as Infinite Stone Estate — is a vineyard parcel of just a bit less than a hectare located in the Paraje Altamira I.G. (Indicaciones Geográficas) area within the Uco Valley. Its surface is covered by stones, it is rich in calcareous elements and is ideal for growing the malbec varietal.

Zuccardi has been instrumental in establishing Paraje Altamira as a premier winegrowing IG. These wines are fermented in “custom concrete vessels,” a signature touch of Familia Zuccardi, allowing for gentle extraction and preserving the purity of fruit and terroir.

I was very fortunate to taste their three Finca Piedra Infinita wines. Below are my customary Tasting Notes.

• Paraje Altamira Classico 2021 Malbec – “intense ripe red fruits, very fragrant, bold and flavorful, with bitter-sweet tannins, grainy, quartz-like and peppery finish”

• Paraje Altamira Supercal 2021 Malbec — “alluring nose with red berries, Nutella, and flintiness, complex, more aroma notes upon opening-up like violets and rose; the wine is full-bodied, vibrant, luscious and with a long, delicious finish”

• Paraje Altamira Gravascal 2021 Malbec — “expressive ripe berries, graphite notes, meaty and savory, full-bodied with firm yet supple tannins, long and lingering flambe berries at the end; amazing depth in this wine”

All three are some of the best Malbecs I have tasted, and no wonder they are highly sought after and among the priciest Argentine Malbecs available.

SANTA JULIA NATURAL WINES
José Zuccardi’s only daughter, Julia, is also involved in the business. The Santa Julia brand, named after her, was introduced to the Familia Zuccardi portfolio in the early 1990s, and was focused on wines using sustainable practices and organic viticulture.

Santa Julia wines got their organic certification as early as 2001 from LETIS (the Latin American Institute for Quality Certification and Standardization), and is probably the first Argentine wine to achieve this. Since then, Santa Julia added a vegan certification, further solidifying their role as Argentina’s leading organic wine producer.

At the Vinexpo, I was able to try their Natural Wines range. Their wines are made with minimal intervention, organically farmed, and at the purest varietal DNA. Even the labels from Santa Julia lean towards natural winemaking with its’ playful, approachable, memorable, child-like and animal-themed identity that is non-intimidating, and quite eye-catching. Below are my customary Tasting Notes.

• La Vaquita — Spanish for “little cow”; made from 80% Malbec and 20% Torrontes. “Light, juicy, fruity with bright berry notes and some stemminess”

• El Burro — Spanish for “donkey”; made from 100% Malbec. “Fresh, peppery, earthy, rustic and slightly flinty”

• La Oveja — Spanish for “ewe”; made from 100% Torrontes. “Aromatic, zesty, white petals, lemon rind, and refreshing; this is easily my favorite among the three Santa Julia natural wines”

Meeting José Zuccardi was more than just a memorable tasting session, it was a masterclass in vision, humility, and terroir. His passion for expressing the Andes through wine is palpable, and his belief in the future of Argentine wines and natural winemaking is inspiring. While the Santa Julia Natural wines were quaffable and delightful, it was the Finca Piedra Infinita series that left a lasting impression — wines that deserve a place in any serious collection of hardcore wine lovers.

For more about Zuccardi wines, and where to find them in the Philippines and rest of Asia, contact Clive McLaughlin, Familia Zuccardi Asia-Pacific Brand Manager, with e-mail address clive@familiazuccardi.com.

Sherwin A. Lao is the first Filipino wine writer member of both the Bordeaux-based Federation Internationale des Journalists et Ecrivains du Vin et des Spiritueux (FIJEV) and the UK-based Circle of Wine Writers (CWW). For comments, inquiries, wine event coverage, wine consultancy, and other wine related concerns, e-mail the author at wineprotege@gmail.com, or check his wine training website https://thewinetrainingcamp.wordpress.com/services/. Also check out his YouTube channel www.youtube.com/@winecrazy.