Château Angélus: Still chiming in Manila

WHEN Hubert de Boüard, owner of Château Angélus, arrived in Manila last month to host a wine dinner at Wine Story in BGC Taguig, the atmosphere was charged with anticipation. This was short notice, but very welcome news. This also happened to be my 4th time meeting Monsieur de Boüard, three of those four times courtesy of Wine Story boss and gourmand extraordinaire Romy Sia. For Filipino wine lovers, it was not just another tasting — it was a rare chance to hear directly from the man who has shaped one of Bordeaux’s most iconic estates.

Over the course of the evening, Mr. De Boüard shared stories of family legacy, vineyard philosophy, and the bold decision to leave the Saint‑Émilion classification, all while pouring his wines that have become benchmarks in the world of fine wine.

A BOLD BUT CALCULATED MOVE
In 2022, Château Angélus made headlines when it withdrew from the Saint‑Émilion classification, following other prestigious names like Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone. For many observers, the question was immediate: would this affect the estate’s market value and reputation?

Mr. De Boüard was unequivocal in my short interview with him: “Nothing changed in the value. No change in the market. Perhaps it is even better, because now everyone talks about Angélus itself, not about the classification.” His point was clear, Angélus had already built its brand over decades, rising from Premier Grand Cru Classé B to Classé A, and ultimately reaching a stature where its identity transcended bureaucratic labels.

The decision, he explained, was not an act of rebellion but of independence. “We decided to leave because it was our own way. Angélus has been elected, promoted, recognized. Now it is time to stand on its own.”

For Mr. De Boüard and his daughter Stephanie, who now runs the estate, the focus is on defending and strengthening the brand rather than relying on external validation. In a global market where brand equity often outweighs classification, Angélus has already proven its point.

THE DNA OF ANGÉLUS
Château Angélus has long been associated with Merlot, yet Mr. De Boüard clarified that the estate today is closer to a 50/50 blend with Cabernet Franc. “Merlot is the blue clay on the top of the vineyard. Cabernet Franc is more in the middle, where it doesn’t like too much clay. But Cabernet Franc is, for me, one of the most aristocratic, elegant grapes in Bordeaux.”

This balance reflects both tradition and evolution. The estate’s old vines, some 70 to 90 years old, anchor its identity, while careful vineyard management ensures Cabernet Franc thrives alongside Merlot. Mr. De Boüard even hinted at a future where Cabernet Franc could take a larger role, even reaching 55% of the blend.

A RARE 100% CABERNET FRANC
One of the topics brought up was Angélus’ rare cuvée, Hommage à Elizabeth Bouchet, made entirely from Cabernet Franc. Produced only in select vintages (2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, and 2022), this wine comes from vines nearly a century old, yielding minuscule quantities, around 1,000 bottles per release. This wine pays homage to Hubert de Boüard’s grandmother, Elizabeth Bouchet. In fact, Bouchet was the local name of Cabernet Franc.

“It is very expensive, maybe three times the price of Angélus,” Mr. De Boüard admitted with a smile. But the rarity and uniqueness justify the premium price. Few estates in Bordeaux dare to bottle pure Cabernet Franc, and Angélus’ Hommage stands as a testament to both experimentation and reverence for tradition.

That evening, Wine Story’s entire stock of this rare wine — five bottles — was sold out at roughly P150,000 each bottle.

SURPRISES BEYOND THE RATINGS
When asked about surprise vintages, Mr. De Boüard cited 2001 as a sleeper year, less hyped than 2000 or 2005, yet delivering elegance and longevity. “Wine is not a picture; it is a movie,” he reminded me. Each vintage evolves, and part of the joy lies in revisiting bottles years later to discover unexpected brilliance. Among pre‑2000 vintages, he singled out 1998 and 1995 as outstanding, and even 1994 as surprisingly rewarding despite its modest reputation.

A CINEMATIC CONNECTION
No conversation about Angélus is complete without mentioning James Bond. Château Angélus wines have appeared in three films — Casino Royale (2006), Spectre (2015), and No Time to Die (2021).

The connection, Mr. De Boüard revealed, began casually. “I met the producers at the property. We joked about a collaboration, and it started with Casino Royale. The choice of vintages was also deliberate: the 1982 vintage for Casino Royale, the 2005 vintage for Spectre, and again the 2005 for No Time to Die.”

For Angélus, the Bond partnership is not a marketing gimmick but a friendship. “It is not business. We are together,” Mr. De Boüard said, noting that the producers even attended the inauguration of Angélus’ new winery. The cinematic spotlight has only reinforced the estate’s aura of sophistication and timeless appeal.

A BRIDGE BETWEEN BORDEAUX AND ASIA
Hosting the wine dinner in Manila was more than symbolic. Mr. De Boüard emphasized how Angélus resonates in Asia, where the name is easy to pronounce and the bell motif connects with both Western churches and Eastern temples. For Filipino wine enthusiasts, the event was a rare chance to taste vintages spanning two decades and to hear firsthand the philosophy behind them from “the man” himself, as Mr. De Boüard explained each vintage with passion and precision.

The evening underscored Angélus’ global reach. From Saint‑Émilion to Manila, from James Bond to family legacy, the estate continues to “chime” across cultures and generations.

Below are my customary tasting notes on the featured Château Angélus vintages during the wine dinner (in order of serving):

Château Angélus 2020: “Lively, fresh, perfumed, violets, cherries, friendly tannins despite its youth, velvety in texture, drinkable and can be appreciated now, yet you know this will be good for the long haul.” It is very youthful, but I can drink this and like it very much now.

Château Angélus 2012: “Rustic, cedary, earthy, horse-saddle, the bouquet overwhelms the fruits initially, but after more aeration, plums and red cherries, silky tannins with mocha flavors at the end.” Let this one decant longer to dissipate the earthiness.

Château Angélus 2009: “Bold, rich, concentrated, fruit-forward, cherries, figs, anise, creamy, vanilla, so much going on in the nose alone, full-bodied with lush tannins, and long and deep cocoa finish.” A very concentrated wine that could further evolve beautifully decades from now.

Château Angélus 2005: “Cedary nose, flambe berries, touch of minerals and slate, buttered toast, structured tannin backbone, velvety in texture, long and intense berries at the end.” My hands-down favorite of the evening, and still very fresh and youthful, despite its 20-year existence; one of the best Angélus I ever had.

As Hubert de Boüard left Manila, he carried with him not just the memory of a successful wine dinner but the affirmation that Angélus’ story resonates far beyond Bordeaux. For Filipino wine lovers, the evening was a reminder that great wine is not only about ratings or labels — it is about heritage, artistry, and the joy of discovery.

For Château Angélus and other wines of this majestic caliber, visit Wine Story at Shangri-La Plaza Mall, Mandaluyong City or the branch at One Uptown Residence, BGC, Taguig City. Or check out their website at www.winestory.com.ph.

The author is the first Filipino wine writer member of both the Bordeaux-based Federation Internationale des Journalists et Ecrivains du Vin et des Spiritueux (FIJEV) and the UK-based Circle of Wine Writers (CWW). For comments, inquiries, wine event coverage, wine consultancy and other wine-related concerns, e-mail the author at wineprotege@gmail.com, or check his wine training website https://thewinetrainingcamp.wordpress.com/services/. Also check out his YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/@winecrazy.