Matsusaka: This P23k/kilo beef literally melts in your mouth

“WAGYU” has been thrown about as a buzzword to connote a certain quality of beef, due to the popularity of Kobe beef and its sisters, which includes Matsusaka beef, cows for which are bred in the Matsusaka region. While one should know that there’s a grading system for wagyu (which basically just means “Japanese cattle”), one of its premier examples, the aforementioned Matsusaka, just arrived in the Philippines.

Lorenzo Vega, chief executive officer of Doubleday Enterprises, unveiled its partnership with Ito Ranch, Japan’s most awarded Matsusaka producer, during an event on Oct. 16 at the Shangri-La Plaza mall. The ranch, founded in 1953, has over 35 competition wins, including a historic three-year Grand Champion streak (2017-2019) at the prestigious Matsusaka Beef Carcass Competition. Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, one of the world’s best restaurants before closing in 2011, singled out the beef from Ito Ranch for its quality.

On Prime Cuts by Doubleday’s website, which will sell the beef, Ito Ranch’s Matsusaka A5 Japanese Wagyu Tenderloin can go up to P22,990 per kilogram. This is due to its intricate marbling and low melting point (12°C, which means it really does melt in your mouth).

There are several factors for the price, one of which is its rarity: “Matsusaka beef is quite controlled by distributors in Japan,” said Mr. Vega during the launch in a Q&A session. He notes that with other sellers in the Philippines claiming to have Matsusaka beef, they offer it in small quantities, which implies unofficial importation status. “Distributors in Japan, frankly, they keep to themselves, and to other first-world countries.”

He also talked about how to serve it: “However you want.”

While he said some people might prefer it as an entire steak, served thinly, torched above sushi, or swirled in a sukiyaki broth, he prefers his sliced and grilled thinly Teppanyaki-style. “Only salt and pepper, none of the other stuff.”

“Because it’s a very fatty cut of beef, I would say medium is very good,” he said about the beef’s ideal doneness. “The fat melts, and it becomes a very luxurious taste.”

Ito Ranch’s Overseas Sales Manager Kunio Kosaka, meanwhile, discussed what made their beef win so many awards. It stands on four pillars: pedigree (he compared breeding their cows to raising racehorses), a stress-free environment for the cows, a long fattening period (around 13 months longer than their competitors), and a feeding program that includes rice and beer: “Each farm’s family secret,” he told BusinessWorld.

Ito Ranch Matsusaka Beef will be available at partner restaurants including Teppanya and Sicilian Roast (of which Mr. Vega is a partner), with more establishments to be announced soon.

For more information, visit dprimecuts.com or contact Prime Cuts by Doubleday at sales@dprimecuts.com. — JL Garcia