Milan Fashion Week: De Sarno’s dressy looks for men at Gucci, D&G goes ‘Sleek,’ and Fendi offers informality

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DOLCE & GABBANA — DOLCE GABBANA YOUTUBE CHANNEL

GUCCI — GUCCI.COM

FENDI — FENDI.COM

MILAN — Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno kicked off Milan Fashion Week on Friday with a lineup of refined tailoring for men, adding touches of sparkle to a somber color palette for his aesthetic reset of the Kering-owned label. (Watch the fashion show here: www.gucci.com/int/en/ms/gucci-ancora-men-fall-winter-24 )

Models strode down a sparse, concrete runway on chunky-soled loafers, parading floor-sweeping overcoats with long slits up the back, double-breasted suit jackets stripped of buttons and trousers cut above the ankles.

Accessories included shiny Jackie handbags in burgundy, beige, or pea green — often clutched with matching gloves — and chunky jewelry worn over bare chests.

Mr. De Sarno’s second catwalk outing comes as products from his debut collection, presented in September, begin to fill stores, marking the label’s turn into pared-down, polished looks, a departure from the flamboyant styles of previous designer Alessandro Michele.

Show notes signed by the designer mentioned real life, irreverent glamour, and simplicity.

Mr. De Sarno’s styles hit the red carpet earlier this week, including a shimmery, floor-length gown in bright green worn by Taylor Swift at the Golden Globe Awards.

The style reset serves as the foundation of turnaround efforts overseen by longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus, who has stepped in as Gucci chief executive officer.

Gucci’s outing marked the first of dozens of shows and events taking place in the Italian fashion capital through Jan. 16, including from top names like Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, and Giorgio Armani.

It comes as the luxury industry faces slowing demand for high-end fashion due to rising costs of living, with shares of Burberry dropping sharply on Friday after the British company, which is also undergoing a brand overhaul, lowered guidance for the second time in three months.

D&G PRESENTS ‘SLEEK’ MENSWEAR COLLECTION
Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana presented a sharply tailored menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday, showing long, textured coats and waist-length jackets to an audience that included Amazon founder Jeff Bezos. (Watch the show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUe0v9zQWIc )

Entitled “Sleek,” the autumn to winter line-up was mostly black, with touches of white, grey, and denim.

In their show notes, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana said the aim of the collection was to channel “the recovery of values through quality expressed in all its forms.”

As models emerged from an underground staircase, Mr. Bezos sat in the front row next to his partner Lauren Sanchez, whose son Nikko Gonzalez was on the catwalk.

South Korean singers Rowoon and Younghoon were also among those watching the show.

FENDI GOES INFORMAL
Earlier on Saturday, LVMH-owned Fendi brought a more informal look to Milan, with artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi drawing inspiration from both urban and country life. (Watch the show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFs2FytBv1Y)

The color palette ranged from green to grey, and plum to dark blue.

Models wore long, pleated shorts inspired by Scottish kilts paired with leather boots resembling Wellingtons, and loose trousers tweaked with pleats.

Fishermen’s coats and waterproof wax jackets added to the outdoorsy feel.

Milan’s fashion week runs through Monday and will be followed by Paris Fashion Week. — Reuters