London Fashion Week: MONCLER Genius presents new ‘co-creators,’ Burberry stages an ode to British heritage, ‘Unhidden’ brings clothes made for all bodies

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Moncler Genius’ ‘The Art of Genius’ at the Olympia London exhibition center — SCREENSHOT FROM MONCLERWORLD.MONCLER.COM/GENIUS

Moncler Genius’ ‘The Art of Genius’ at the Olympia London exhibition center — SCREENSHOT FROM MONCLERWORLD.MONCLER.COM/GENIUS

LONDON — Italian luxury brand Moncler unveiled an expansion of its Moncler Genius collaborations project at London Fashion Week, introducing new “co-creators” in the realms of art, music, design, and sport.

The label, known for its puffer jackets, took over the Olympia London exhibition center with its “The Art of Genius” live show, with the likes of singers Pharrell Williams and Alicia Keys, rapper Jay-Z’s entertainment company Roc Nation and brands Mercedes-Benz and Adidas Originals among others having their own space to present their creative concepts.

For Mr. Williams’ “Art of the Terrain” concept, models dressed in khaki camping outerwear walked around a set covered in grass. Others posed in a range of colorful puffer jackets, coats and gloves at the Adidas space.

Earlier this month, Moncler said it was evolving from the Moncler Genius fashion collaborations project it launched in 2018, where guest designers presented different versions of its jackets, “to a platform for co-creation across different industries.”

BURBERRY
Faux fur, oversized coats, and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week.

Set in a dark marquee in London’s Kennington Park, Mr. Lee delivered a colorful take on Burberry’s classic camel, black, and red check as Burberry steps into a new era under his tenure. (Watch the show here: Autumn Winter 2023 Show | Burberry® Official )

The 37-year-old, Bradford, England-born chief creative officer drew inspiration from the brand’s affinity with exploration and the outdoors in his first collection for the fashion house, according to the show notes.

Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both women’s and men’s wear. Burberry’s mackintosh-style trench coat was re-imagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels.

English rose patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist and cozy square toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the Autumn Winter 2023 collection.

There were also feather embellished outfits in autumnal tones and pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers.

A revamped version of the Equestrian Knight design was blown up on blankets and dresses in blue and white.

Outfits were accessorized with hot water bottles, fuzzy trimmed bags, and big scarves.

Mr. Lee’s outfits are key to Chief Executive Jonathan Akeroyd’s aim to move the 167-year-old brand more upmarket and attract younger consumers.

Monday’s show follows the unveiling of Burberry’s new logo: a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in “Britishness.”

The “Burberry Classics” preview campaign released earlier this month, the first under Mr. Lee’s creative direction, brought back a redesign of the brand’s Equestrian Knight motif and featured British celebrities including soccer star Raheem Sterling, rapper and MC Skepta and actress Vanessa Redgrave.

Mr. Lee previously created a buzz at Italy’s Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels. He replaced Ricardo Tisci last year.

UNHIDDEN
Fashion designer Victoria Jenkins unveiled stylish and practical clothes made for people with disabilities on the runway at London Fashion Week in a collection intended to address a gap in the market.

The “Unhidden: A New Era in Fashion” event saw around 30 models who all live with a disability, chronic condition or visible difference model floaty dresses with easy access around the waist as well as colorful chiffon tie shirts with adjustable sleeves at footwear brand Kurt Geiger’s showroom.

“Unhidden is an adaptive fashion brand… primarily targeted at inclusion within fashion of people with disabilities,” Ms. Jenkins told Reuters.

Ms. Jenkins, who has reduced mobility, first discovered a gap in the market for clothes designed with all bodies in mind in 2016 during a hospital stay when another patient raised it.

Surprised that only a few brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, offer such fashion for all, she decided to use her previous experience as a garment technologist to set up her own brand.

“When I had this idea, it was like a light bulb and just everything changed,” she said.

“It helps me personally… but also I see the impact around me of people being able to dress how they need to.”

Ms. Jenkins demonstrated a royal blue shirt with pop snaps that open and close easily, as people who have had strokes can struggle with buttons.

“It also has openings all down the arm,” she said, so that anyone going through treatment “can access their arm without taking any clothes off. It’s about dignity.”

Model and content creator Jessica Ping-Wild, who uses a prosthetic leg and struggles to find suitable trousers, said a brand like Unhidden makes all the difference.

“A designer taking into consideration the fact that bodies are different… it’s almost breaking that mold of beauty that has been so ingrained in society for centuries,” she said.

Ms. Jenkins’ collection also includes shirts with longer backs for wheelchair users as well as tailor made suits. She hopes her clothes become even more readily available in the future.

“Diversity without disability isn’t diversity … it feels like it’s the last taboo. People are still scared of the D word. You know, disabled is not a bad word,” she said. — Reuters