Wartime fashion statements
A beleaguered nation dresses up
WHEN Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky met with US President Donald J. Trump last year, the media buzzed with his choice of outfit: a military-style sweatshirt, in a world ruled by suits. Called out for his outfit, he answered: “I will wear costume after this war will finish.”
On Feb. 23, the Embassy of Ukraine in the Philippines took a similar thread in helping clothes make a statement about their nation. The embassy, along with the Ukrainian and Philippine Fashion Weeks, produced an exhibition called From Kyiv to Manila. It ran for just three days at Greenbelt 4’s atrium, but more examples of cultural diplomacy are on the way for the embassy.
The exhibition featured the clothes of Ukrainian designer Nadya Dzyak, in a collection called BORYVITER (a Ukrainian word for the Kestrel bird, and also a symbol of resistance within the country).
The clothes, however, feature flounces and light fabrics — it is her Spring/Summer collection after all. What they hold instead are memories of summers stolen by war.
“Berdiansk and the Azov Sea mean a lot to me. This is my personal story. We spent many summers, many holidays in Berdiansk. The strongest in my collection was created there. Now, this region is occupied by Russia,” she said in a video message showed during the exhibition. “It’s very hard to understand, but we believe that some(day), we’ll return to this region, and it will be great.”
WAR
While there had been a string of conflicts between Russia and Ukraine, these escalated in 2022 with the Russian invasion of Ukraine. According to the Ukrainian ambassador Yuliia Fediv, Ms. Dzyak’s production lines are still active in Ukraine, just 200 kilometers from the frontlines. “Her pieces represent the parts of Ukraine which are now on the frontline or under occupation,” she told BusinessWorld.
“You see that under occupation are Ukrainians who are living, and they want to be part of Ukraine. Russian narratives are saying that it’s pro-Russian.
“No. We wanted to show that people from the parts of Ukraine are Ukrainians who are obliged to leave, (either) within Ukraine or to go abroad, because they lost their homes because of the Occupation. They do not want to stay under the Russian empire,” she declared.
“It’s also the sign that (it’s) better abroad or within other territories, without water, without light… but not under Russia,” she said.
Ms. Dzyak herself said, “Today, I live in different countries, and I truly feel that real creativity has no borders.
“Fashion and creativity are really our language: we speak to the world,” she said. “Creativity helps us move forward in difficult times. It gives strength and a voice,” she said. “I want to say to Philippine designers: please listen to your heart. Always trust your creativity, and never stop creating.
“We don’t give up. We continue creating no matter what.”
PRACTICALITY
“Cultural diplomacy is a practical form of solidarity,” Ms. Fediv said in a speech.
“The main message is to show the resilience of Ukrainians and also to show that amid the war, Ukrainians are open to collaborate and to partner with Filipino designers, and (do) business together.”
According to her, many people think that lives are on hold during war, “And you need to wait until peace will come to the land.”
“We wanted to show that it’s a new kind of war. The main idea of this war, from the Russian side, is to erase the identity of Ukrainians,” she told BusinessWorld. “That’s why we should maintain our culture… to help preserve the country.”
Small and medium enterprises like Ms. Dzyak’s, which continue to produce in Ukraine, have now become vital for the country’s survival. “They remain in the country to pay taxes and to make our economy ongoing,” she said. “It’s like a sign: you need to fight for your country through any means, even just doing business.”
While the exhibition may have ended this week, it’s just a first step for the embassy. They’re looking into a designer exchange, where Ukrainian designers can show their work during Philippine Fashion Week, but she’s also looking into other fields like the visual and performing arts. “There are many plans ahead. Hopefully, it will become reality,” said the ambassdor.
“We need help from all people around the world. You don’t need to donate… you can just collaborate with our people,” she said. “Please be open to collaborate with Ukraine in this regard: in fashion, crafts, and all other creative industries.” — Reuters
