Paris Fashion Week: Giorgio Armani Privé shows glittering black velvet; Chanel shows haute couture in private salon setting

PARIS — Giorgio Armani showed his latest Privé haute couture collection at the label’s gilded Paris headquarters on Tuesday last week, displaying black velvet evening wear with shimmery touches on the runway — once again, without the Italian designer, who continues to rest at home.

“In twenty years of Armani Privé, this is the first time I haven’t been to Paris,” Mr. Armani, who turned 91 on Friday, said in a statement from the label.

The designer was also absent from his label’s fashion shows in Milan last month — a first for the Italian designer famous for his hands-on approach — following a report from Italian newswires that he had spent some days in a Milan hospital.

For Tuesday’s show, Mr. Armani said he oversaw details including fittings and makeup remotely, through a video link. Though he felt ready to travel, doctors advised he extend his rest, he added.

Held at the label’s sprawling mansion in the heart of the wealthy Triangle d’Or neighborhood of Paris, the show drew crowds to the streets angling for photos of arriving guests.

Inside, models walked slowly through a maze of rooms, parading black velvet pantsuits and slender dresses. There were tailcoats, oversized bows, and glittering embellishments. Towering black velvet heels added a feminine touch to more masculine looks, while sharp-shouldered suit jackets contrasted with bustier tops in various forms. (Watch the show here: https://tinyurl.com/y5c2z9z6 )

CHANEL
Chanel showed its latest collection of haute couture in an all-beige salon set at the Grand Palais in Paris on Tuesday, its last runway presentation by the design studio before the debut of new creative director Matthieu Blazy expected in September. (See the show here: https://tinyurl.com/3vd2zjps)

Models emerged from an ornate entrance, parading long-skirted dresses in soft toned tweeds, with touches of sparkles and tufts of feathers. They wore tight buns and tall boots, which left U-shaped heel indentations in the plush carpet.

Colors were muted, mostly ivory, beige, and brown, but one silky dress came in a pale silvery blue, worn under a short, yellow-toned bomber jacket with a prominent, feathery collar.

The show was held in the Salon d’Honneur, a smaller space of the freshly restored Grand Palais, marking a contrast with the soaring, central exhibition hall usually favored by the label.

Facing a prolonged slump, many labels in the high-end fashion industry are renewing their design approach, with Kering-owned Gucci and Balenciaga, and LVMH’s Dior among labels that have recently named new designers.

After the show, guests lingered, making their way slowly down grand staircases, stopping for photos of the building’s elaborate ironwork and gilded wall decorations.

The Paris fall-winter haute couture fashion shows ran through Thursday, featuring runway outings from labels Schiaparelli, Iris van Herpen, and Imane Ayissi, as well as Maison Margiela and Balenciaga. — Reuters