If you have the right cookbook
THERE’S a notion that baking can be a challenge: there’s the precise measurement of ingredients, the crippling fear of making a mistake — and of course, the sheer dissatisfaction of chewing through a cookie as hard as a rock, or else a cake so dry it ruins a day. Celebrity chef Myke “Tatung” Sarthou’s book, Baking Simpol, is meant to remedy that.
The cookbook is hitting physical bookstores next month (it is already selling on online platforms).
“Baking seems to be the holy grail of cooking. It is where even experienced cooks and chefs sometimes fail because it’s a totally different ball game. The mechanics and chemistry of it all are more complex and thus, need a little more understanding for you to be successful with it,” he says in the book. The book has 243 pages, and is written in a conversational tone — Mr. Sarthou describes a Hummingbird Cake as such: “It’s like a banana cake but with pineapple. It will make you happy.”
Late last year, Mr. Sarthou’s Simpol the Cookbook brought home awards in two categories at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards: one for Easy Recipes at Home, and another for Celebrity Chef – World category. “I did not have lofty aspirations for the Simpol cookbook when I sat down and wrote the manuscript. My mantra from the very beginning was, well, simply, to make cooking ‘simpol’ for everyone. So, it was less about displaying flair and sophistication and more about convincing readers to actually try cooking their own meals. That motivation must have resonated with the judges at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards,” he said.
“At the same time, Filipino cuisine continues to enjoy its moment under the global culinary spotlight. Filipino ingredients, dishes, and restaurants are gaining recognition abroad. Foreign foodies taking notice of our cuisine for the first time and novice Filipino cooks trying their hand at cooking both find a common ground in this humble book,” he said.
The same spirit is infused in this new work. “Having a baking manual made by Filipinos for Filipinos is important because it is able to place the methods and the ingredients in the local context,” said the chef. “For one, ‘room temperature’ as referenced in foreign books may not be as we know it here. Ingredients listed in the book are also readily available in local groceries.”
One may think that after the pan de sal and the buko pie and pili tarts and whatnot, it’s easy to assume that baking in the Philippines isn’t as strong a force as one might like. Mr. Sarthou disagrees. “All it takes is one careful look at our neighborhood bakeries to argue that baking is actually a big part of the Philippine culinary tradition. We boast of a plethora of baked goods that can rival those of other cuisines. I try to highlight these recipes in the cookbook, especially those that I enjoyed in my youth. Coconut macaroons, torta bisaya, binangkal, alfajores, inipit, and taisan loaf are just a few of these delicious Filipino baked goods found in Baking Simpol. The mission of this book is to bring these baking traditions into our homes.”
At the same time, he does know that baking hasn’t reached many Filipino homes. “We have to destigmatize baking. I think the fear that many home cooks harbor towards this cooking method is unfounded. At the end of the day, it’s just that — another cooking method. There are simple and complex stews and roast dishes as there are for baking.”
He recalls a childhood story rooted in baking, that shapes his career to this day:
“I, for one, started baking really young at eight years old. In fact, this was my first exposure to cooking. Preparing savory dishes came later. The first recipe I learned is a one-egg cake. It was my mother who held my hands throughout the process that involved measuring, sifting, and mixing. It was a fun and delicious experience that has led me to my culinary career today. I hope to be the same influence on my readers,” he said.
“I want to make baking simple and enjoyable that it becomes part of their everyday lives.”
VERSATILITY
Mr. Sarthou is also a restaurateur, and many people have fond memories of his restaurants Talisay and Pandan. However, because of the COVID-19 pandemic, many people have not been able to visit them in almost two years. In that gap, however, Mr. Sarthou has diversified his interests.
Between 2020 to 2021, Mr. Sarthou has boosted his content on his YouTube channel, released three cookbooks, and has become co-owner and president of Vertikal Media, under which lies their publishing arm, Vertikal Books, which published his works.
While his restaurants have reopened in the breathing space provided by the reduction of COVID-19 cases, he looks back at how he (and his readers and viewers) diversified in the years since.
“Filipinos have found more confidence in the kitchen during the pandemic. At the height of the community quarantines, Filipinos who were stuck at home and without access to their favorite restaurant fare were forced to prepare [food to satisfy] their cravings at home. Food trends also required home cooks to up their kitchen game. Imagine, baking sourdoughs at home even became a thing. Chefs like me had to be creative to remain relevant during this time. I’m thankful to have bolstered my calling of guiding home cooks in their culinary journey during this period… I remain committed to my mission to share what I know in the kitchen.” — Joseph L. Garcia
